THE UMBRIAN CHALICE: A GUIDE TO UMBRIA’S BEST WINE.

A WINE LOVERS GUIDE TO THE GREEN HEART OF ITALY

My education into Umbrian wine began within the first few days of setting up home in this glorious region. I remember being seated at what was to become one of our favorite local restaurants, Bruno Coppetta, and being handed a glass of crisp, refreshing local white wine called Grechetto. I was instantly taken aback, not only by its deliciousness but also by the fact that I had never heard of it. And over time, I’ve been amazed to discover that this region not only produces a huge range of excellent, great-value wines but also has many wonderful vineyards that are well worth a visit, especially in the spring.

Oenology (also enology) is the science and study of wine and winemaking. Oenology is distinct from viticulture, which is the science of the growing, cultivation, and harvesting of grapes.

Umbria, the ‘green heart of Italy’, is a region with a proud history and age-old tradition of winemaking. The climate is the same as neighboring Tuscany, with rainy winters and sunny, dry summers, yet the region only produces about one-third of the wine.

While not as well-known as Tuscany, Umbria produces some of Italy’s most unique and exquisite wines. And while tourists are winding their way through congested roads in Tuscany en route to famous, crowded, and expensive wineries, here in Umbria, you can ramble in relative peace through the beautiful, unspoiled countryside and stumble upon some amazing, virtually empty wineries offering great wine and nibbles at a very reasonable price.

There’s a lot to unpack here in the Umbrian wine scene, so the question is—where to begin? But not to worry, I’ve broken it down for you into varieties of wines, wine routes, and wineries. Most of which are an easy drive from my newly renovated Grove Cottage. Comfortable and tranquil while only being a short walk into Città Della Pieve’s lively, historic town center.

Calice di vino is the correct way to order a glass of wine in Italian. Calice in Italian or Chalice in English refers to a wine glass rather than Bicchiere, which refers to a drinking glass for other beverages, i.e., water.

FUN FACT: In 2011, Italy overtook France as the world’s largest producer of wine, with 50.3 million hectoliters produced in 2022. Which, added to the 44.2 million hectoliters of France, represents 60% of EU production and 36% of wine production globally.

THE VARIETIES.

Umbria has just over a dozen wine zones, divided into four different growing regions: Trasimeno, Orvieto, Montefalco, and Sploetto. Although great wine can be found in all of them, there are only a few that produce sufficient quantities to export beyond the European market. Which explains why you may only be familiar with Orvieto DOC, Montefalco DOC, and Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG.

Umbria, like Marche and Lazio, is best known for its white wine production. Often noted for its crisp, iconic white wine, Orvieto DOC,. Despite changes in style over time, this wine (based on the Trebbiano grape variety) remains the region’s largest appellation. It accounts for over ten percent of the overall Umbrian wine production. Trebbiano is also referred to as Procanico in Umbria. Some believe it to be superior as it has smaller grape bunches, which produces a finer wine. If Trebbiano is king, then Grechetto is the prince of Umbrian white wine and my personal favourite. Rounding out the white wines are Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio (Gris), and the rediscovered Trebbiano spoletino.

The region also makes intriguing reds that every wine lover should know. Umbria is home to the native red grape Sagrantino, as well as Sangiovese, Colorino, and other indigenous Italian varieties. Producers also cultivate a smattering of international grapes, namely Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The region’s flagship reds, Montefalco Sagrantino and Torgiano Rosso Riserva, boast layers of complexity and age-worthy structures, while Montefalco Rosso and Rosso di Torgiano are generally more approachable.

NOTES ON 7 CLASSIC UMBRIAN WINES.

Sagrantino di Montefalco

What is it? 100% Sagrantino grapes aged for almost 3 years.

The most important DOCG of Umbria is this very special red grape, which grows around the village of Montefalco. Sagrantino di Montefalco seems to have the highest content of polyphenols (antioxidants) of any red wine, anywhere. With its high tannins, Sagrantino wines can age for 30-plus years.

Tasting and food pairing: Sagrantino di Montefalco is deep and opaque, with notes of black plum, cocoa powder, blackberry, violet, vanilla and sage. On the palate, it’s bold, with black fruits and minerals. Enjoy it with aged cheeses, roasted boar or braised meat.

Note: “There is also a dessert wine, Montefalco Sagrantino Passito, made using partially dried Sagrantino grapes. These wines burst with dark berry flavours and nuttiness, with sweetness to balance Sagrantino’s rigorous tannin. Simply amazing with a dark fruit jam tart (Crostata). Especially blackberry).”

Torgiano Rosso Riserva

What is it?  DOCG red wine made with  50–70% Sangiovese, 15–30% Canaiolo, up to 10% Trebbiano and other local red grapes, including Ciliegiolo and Montepulciano. Being a Riserva, appellation rules require it to age for at least 3 years in the winery, with a minimum of 6 months in the bottle. The grapes for Torgiano Rosso Riserva are sourced from vineyards only in the elevated growing areas around Torgiano town, not in the flatlands. These wines offer elegant red fruit and floral characteristics with ample aging potential. This is a wine to store in your cellar for a minimum of 5 or 6 years.

Tasting and food pairing: The wines appear brilliantly semi-translucent ruby-red with notes of raspberry, strawberry, leather and potpourri. Tannins are bold with tangy acidity. To be enjoyed with elaborate meat dishes or aged cheese.

Montefalco Rosso

What is it? A DOC red blend of 60–70% Sangiovese, 10–15% Sagrantino and 15–30% other varieties.

With its addition of Sagrantino, Montefalco Rosso has a deeper colour, more tannin, and richer plummy fruit than many other Italian Sangiovese-based wines. It also benefits from the added fruitiness of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Many producers experiment with oak-aging to make Montefalco Rosso delicious on release.

Tasting and food pairing: transparent ruby-red with aromas of raspberry, strawberry, cinnamon, leather and rose. On the palate, it’s bold and spicy, with medium to high tannin and juicy-fruity acidity. Great pairings are meaty pasta dishes and cold cuts. It’s perfect with a BBQ.

Orvieto Classico

What is it? Orvieto wine is a DOC white made by blending a minimum of 40% Grechetto with 20–40% Trebbiano and up to 40% other non-aromatic white grapes.

Grechetto is the region’s star white grape varietal. It is a great Italian alternative to un-oaked Chardonnay or Pinot Gris/Grigio. 

Taste and food pairing: Orvieto wine is typically a fruity, dry white with aromas of lemon, crisp apple and juicy acidity. Great with spaghetti alla carbonara or pici cacio e pepe (pasta with pecorino cheese and black pepper).

Note: In Umbria, Trebbiano is also called “Procanico.”

Colli Martani

What is it? Standard Colli Martani Bianco is usually based on Trebbiano and Grechetto di Todi, a sub-variety of the Grechetto grape named after the Umbrian town of Todi. Colli Martani Rosso is a blend of Sangiovese (minimum 50%) and usually Montepulciano. As with the white varieties, the two components of the DOC’s basic red can also be used as varietals, as can Merlot. The standard ageing period for a red Riserva wine is 24 months. The region is steeped in history. The Etruscans first established road links, which enhanced the development of the area, resulting in its wines being held in great esteem through the centuries.

Taste: Both wines are characterized by low yields and therefore have concentrated flavors. Grechetto di Todi adds structure and richness to many Colli Martiani whites.

Lago di Corbara Pino Nero

What is it? Both Pinot Nero DOC and Pinot Nero Riserva DOC require a minimum of 85% Pinot Noir grapes. In this area so many organic and biodynamic agriculture and winemaking experiments take place around the Lake of Corbara, east of Orvieto. The unique microclimate creates Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon and especially late-harvest (sweet) wines like nowhere else in Italy.

Taste and food pairing: Pale ruby-red with fragrant aromas of strawberry, the wines are smooth and elegant. This is a wine you can enjoy without food, but also with chicken and fish courses.

Muffato

What is it?  Late-harvest sweet wine made from Grechetto and Sauvignon Blanc grapes (an Umbrian Vin Santo). If you like French Sauternes, you will fall in love with Muffato (from’muffa’, mould). Specific local weather conditions see grapes attacked by a “noble rot,” Botrytis cinerea. This grey mould requires an alternation of humidity and sun. In Europe, these conditions appear only in a few places, like Tokaji in Hungary and close to Bordeaux in France.

Taste and food pairing: golden yellow to amber, with an intriguing nose from honey to ripe apricot jam, candied fruit, and the mysterious touch of mould. On the palate, it is rich, sweet, long, and silky, balanced by a good acidity. Its perfect marriage is with blue cheese like Gorgonzola or Roquefort, as well as some meat pâtés, short pastry desserts, or biscotti.

Vignaiolo (plural vignaioli), vine tender or grape grower, derived from the Italian vigna, meaning vine, from the Latin vinea, vineyard, from the Latin vinum, wine. Pronounced VEEN-y’eye-OH-loh (plural VEEN-y’eye-OH-lee), vignaiolo is used to denote a winery that uses estate-grown fruit in the production of its wines.

THE UMBRIAN WINE REGIONS

Now we’ve covered the types of wonderful wines on offer here in Umbria, it’s time to explore where these beauties are grown. There are four main wine regions in Umbria: Montefalco & Colli Martin, Orvieto & the Amerini Hills, Spelleto & the Valneria and Perugia; and Colli del Trasimeno & Altotiberini hills. Visiting each of these areas not only gives you access to all the great wines but also the opportunity to explore the gorgeous countryside and stunning medieval hill top towns the region is famous for.

STRADA DEI VINI

You maybe wondering how to navigate the wine zones. Well, that’s easy Just follow the STRADA DEL VINO: Italy is literally criss-crossed by a network of tourist wine routes designed to promote and guard the territories where excellent wines and olive oil are produced. These are known as Strada dei Vini. All these routes are governed by a 1999 law that guarantees the quality of all that is on offer, from the wines to the local delicacies. Along the Wine Routes, you’ll not only find wineries, agriturismo, and farms where you can observe the production of the finest Italian wines, but also information portals with maps, guides and local history. You’ll get ample chances to appreciate the food and wine traditions of each zone, but above all, you’ll meet people who are happy to share an authentic passion and knowledge that has been handed down for generations.

Here in Umbria, there are 4 major STRADA DEI VINI. They are the ‘Strada del Vino dei Colli del Trasimeno‘, The ‘Strada dei Vini del Cantico‘, The ‘Strada dei Vini Etrusco Romana’ and the ‘Strada del Sagrantino‘. You can easily explore each of these routes alone, but there are also tour groups, e-bike or vespa adventures or even on horseback if you so desire. Each route has their own website with tour suggestions, mapsand guides. For more information, click the highlighted routes below.

Strada del Sagrantino

Strada del Sagrantino wine route is marketed especially well. It extends through the towns of Gualdo Cattaneo, Bevagna, Giano dell’Umbria, Castel Ritaldi, Bettona, and Cannara, with the epicentre Montefalco. There are 12 main events and initiatives throughout the year, from the mid-April market ‘Terre del Sagrantino’, the Settimana Enologia in September, and the Festival Calici in Montefalco in December.

Strada del Vino dei Colli del Trasimeno

Trasimeno Hills Wine Route is perfect for discovering the wines from the slopes surrounding the largest lake in central Italy, a place perhaps most famous as the scene of the battle between Hannibal and the Romans. You can visit the field where it all took place, still intact, near Tuoro sul Trasimeno.

Strada dei Vini Etrusco Romana

Strada dei Vini Etrusco Romana or ‘Route of the Roman Etruscan wines’ is similarly evocative. Today, the wine may not be the same as that drunk by the ancients, but combine your research with archaeological visits to Orvieto, Amelia, Terni and the mysterious Valnerina. The wines are collectively the Colli Amerini DOC and Orvieto DOC. The Enoteca Regionale of Orvieto has them all.

Strada dei Vini del Cantico

Strada dei Vini del Cantico. There is a little crossover with the other zones, but Todi, Spello and Assisi need little introduction. Head first to Torgiano and the fine wine museum.

Cantina, literally cellar or cool place to store perishable goods and by extension, tavern, probably from the Italian canto meaning angle or corner from the Greek kampthos, bend or angle. The word cantina has a wide variety of applications in Italy (often used for restaurants and food stores, as well as wineries) and can be found across Italy to denote wine cellar.

THE WINERIES, CANTINAS, AND TOURS

Visiting an Italian winery/cantina is always a wondrous experience, even if just for a simple tasting, or, should I say, not so simple, as you will often be presented with several wines as well as a charcuterie plate of delicious local products. If you’re looking for a more immersive visit, you can also enjoy: lunch or dinner in the vines; trekking through the vineyards; cooking classes; and even the possibility of taking part in the grape harvest if you’re visiting in September.

If you’re interested in a self-guided experience, then be advised that most vineyards in Umbria require you to contact them in advance to schedule a visit. This usually means a phone call, though some have email addresses you can try or book directly on their website, and you’ll also need a vehicle with a GPS unit (or, as a fallback, a really detailed driving map—some of these places are notoriously hard to find).

And then, of course, you’ve got to figure out which wineries to visit; not to fret, I’ve curated a list below of my favourite Umbrian wineries.

But if you’re looking to venture to other regions or simply require more guidance, there’s an organization in Italy that helps keep track of the Italian vineyards and allows visitors to book tastings in advance. It’s called the Movimento Turismo del Vino (otherwise known as MTV), and the website is full of useful information, including suggested wine-tasting itineraries. The site has an English version, too. You can also sign up for the MTV newsletter to find out about wine-related events as well, which may coincide with your travels.

May is one time of year when you don’t need to make appointments at all is called Cantine Aperte, or Open Cellars Day. It’s sort of an open house for participating vineyards, with lots of local delicacies, live music and, of course, wine. It takes place the last weekend in May each year, and there’s a special part of the MTV website dedicated to the annual event.

Enoteca  is an Italian word that is derived from the Greek word oinothki, which literally means “wine repository,” but it is used to describe a special type of local or regional wine shop that originated in Italy.

SOME OF MY FAVORITE WINERIES

Cantine Neri , the Neri family purchased 42 hectares of land, vines, and olive trees. For many years, Enrico’s father supplied grapes of renowned quality to other producers. In the mid-2000s, Enrico Neri decided to actively get involved in the business of making wine. Today, he produces about 50.000 bottles per year, mainly based on classic Umbrian whites and reds, along with the precious Muffato, known as one of the regions best dessert wines.

Madonna del Latte is located in the hills between Orvieto and Lake Bolsena. Today, it is a small family-owned winery founded in 2000 by Manuela Zardo and Hellmuth Zwecker. After traveling all over Italy as food and wine writers, they found the ideal location in Umbria to start producing their very own wine. The vines flourish on the slopes of rich, sandy volcanic soil at an altitude of 450 meters, where they optimally absorb the benefits of abundant sun and ventilation. All their wines are certified organic and biodynamic. They also have a spectacular barrel cellar worth the trip to the vineyard. It was dug into the volcanic tuff in ancient times, most likely as an Etruscan tomb. The cellar’s temperature and humidity offer ideal conditions for the French oak barrels used for aging their wine. A must-try at this winery is their Viognier. It’s one of my favorites, but honestly, all their wines are wonderful.

Tili Vini Winery is on the eastern border of the beautiful city of Assisi, a family estate for generations. The winery, which has a centuries-old history of wine and olive oil production, is truly a magical setting for a fully immersive Umbrian wine experience.

Benincasa Winery is located in the most prestigious winemaking region of Montefalco. An area famous for producing Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG wine. Here, you will be able to taste wines made from local as well as international grape varieties that are cultivated with respect for the environment.

Pomario winery and farm is the passion project of the Spalletti Trivelli family. The estate is located in Perugia Province, on the border with Tuscany. The Pomario land is located at 500m above sea level, providing it with the unique climatic conditions of the high hills of the Trasimeno. They have 3 hectares of vineyards that are cultivated with the Sangiovese, Trebbiano, and Malvasia varietals, as well as a clone of the Bordeaux Merlot.

Madrevite was founded in 2003 when Nicola Chiucchiurlotto began to restore his family farm and decided to replant part of his grandfather Zino’s vineyard, dating back to 1978. Like most of the rural properties, the estate previously was a subsistence farm, including not only vineyards but also olive groves and cropland for growing grains and legumes. Today, Madrevite covers 60 hectares of land on three wooded hills on the border between Umbria and Tuscany. Of these 11 hectares, 11 are vineyards and 5 are olive groves; the rest is woodland and arable farmland. It is also one of the wineries where you can bring and fill your own bottles. And aside from the regular wine tastings, you can also attend their delightful weekend sunset picnics from April through October, depending on the weather.

Cantina Benedetti & Grigi, a superb winery in the Montefalco area, uses the typical variety of Sagrantino.

Goretti Winery is located outside the city of Perugia. The winery produces award-winning wines from indigenous grape varieties. Visit the Goretti winery, discover the 12th-century tower, and overlook the landscape while enjoying a glass of wine and magnificent sunsets!

Castello di Corbara The winery is located between Orvieto and Todi and overlooks the lake of Corbara. Their award-winning reds include a delicious Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese and Montepulciano. And as for the whites, you’ll find Orvieto Classico along with a Grechetto.

Poggio Bertaio The vineyards are situated on the hills above Castiglione del Lago, the medieval fortress town on the north shore of Lago del Trasimeno. Poggio Bertaio is one of the best Umbrian producers of Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot and Grechetto. 

Tenuta Lamborghini located between the southern side of Lake Trasimeno and the beautiful medieval village of Panicale. The total area is 100 hectares, divided between a 9-hole golf course, a resort with restaurant and a 36-hectare vineyard. The estate was purchased by Ferruccio Lamborghini in the late 1960s, who fell in love with the landscape. And having abandoned the famous automobile business, he decided to return to his roots: agriculture.

Palazzone winery produces one of the most prominent wines in the region. It is located on the slopes of Rocca Ripesena hills, close to Orvieto. Visit the Palazzone, taste wines paired with local specialties, and, of course, admire the stunning landscape surrounding the winery.

Tenuta Vitalonga is a boutique winery owned by the Maravalle family located in Ficulle, near Orvieto, where the western border of Umbria meets Tuscany. The winery, set in a natural landscape of extraordinary beauty, is historically important for wine production.

Fontesecca Paolo and Stefania Bolla, with their three little girls, Carlotta, Beatrice, and Roberta, left Verona in 2001, a city in which Paolo worked in the world of wine, to move to Umbria. A few years later, his interest in organic wine production led him to the beautiful Podere Fontesecca, located in the foothills of Città della Pieve on the border between Umbria and Tuscany. All their wines are harvested manually and produced by natural fermentation without the addition of additives or oenological adjuvants. They produce a classic white with Trebbiano and Grechetto and some amazing and unique reds, plus a delicious brandy.

There are few better ways to experience spring in Umbria than with a trip to its vineyards combined with a visit to our world-class thermal spas. Check out my post, MY ITALIAN THERMAL SPA CLUB, for more details.

I do hope you’ll visit to experience for yourselves our excellent Umbrian wines: Cin cin!