CARNEVALE ITALIA: UNMASKING THE SPECTICAL

Exploring Carnival Traditions in Italy.

Step into the lively streets during Carnival season, and you’ll find yourself amidst a whirlwind of tantalising scents, sounds, and sights. The smell of sweet fried pastry wafts through the air, mingling with the buoyant laughter of jovial revellers and the distant music. Vibrant colours reflected from spangled harlequin splash the city walls, confetti flutters in the breeze, and elaborate masks hide the faces of excited partygoers. This is Carnevale, the grandest and most exuberant celebration before the solemnity of Lent on and around Shrove Tuesday, or Fat Tuesday, as it’s known. In this post, I’ll delve into the rich history and vibrant traditions surrounding this festival. And discover the magic and wonder that make it a must-see spectacle for any local or traveler. So grab a cocktail and a mask, and let’s explore the captivating world of Carnevale together.

Looking for some fabulous Italian libations to kick off the carnival season? Then check out my post-MY ITALIAN COCKTAIL CLUB.

Origins of Carnevale

Deeply rooted in ancient history Carnevale is a vivacious and significant cultural phenomenon that transcends mere merry-making. Originating from the time-honoured civilisations of Greece and Rome, this jubilant celebration pays homage to deities such as Bacchus, the god of wine, and Saturn, the god of sowing and seeds, reflecting the society’s agricultural past.

In Italy, where traditions are passionately preserved, Carnevale embodies a high-spirited farewell to the pleasures of the flesh, as the nation braces itself for the rigours of Lent. A time of introspection and penitence observed by Christians, marking the forty days of fasting, prayer, and penance leading up to Easter. During this sacred period, the consumption of meat (hence the term “carne,” Latin for meat, in “Carnevale”), sugar, and fats is customarily restricted.

Before this devout time establishes its hold, Italians indulge in an outpouring of festivity. The streets buzz with excitement and are decked out in vibrant decorations, while jocund music and laughter fill the air and convoys of intricately decorated floats parade through towns and cities. Each offering sweet culinary accompaniments to their own Carnevale tradition.

Here Carnevale is not just a festival; it’s a bridge between the past and the present. A moment of uninhibited joy before a season of solemnity, and a display of the enduring human spirit, revelling in the moment, while embracing traditions that have shaped an entire cultural identity.

Where to Celebrate Carnevale in Italy  

Though everyone has probably seen images of the Carnevale masks and parades of Venice, every town in Italy, even the smallest, has its own events. School children will march in the street or ride atop team-made floats and school bands play. Bigger cities will bring together floats, bands, dance troupes and elaborate costumes for the parades.  

There are some cities, however, that regularly outdo themselves. Here are some of the biggest, most famous Carnevale celebrations in all of Italy:  

1. Venice, Veneto 

The Carnival of Venice, a celebration shrouded in mystery and delight, captures hearts around the globe. Traced back to the year 1296, it is said that the Senate of Venice bestowed this mesmerising celebration upon the public with an official declaration, signalling the commencement of joyous festivities on the eve of Lent. This occasion was a much-needed respite, a time when everyone could shrug off the weight of their social status or religious affiliations, and immerse in jubilant anonymity behind their masks.

As time unfurled like a Venetian tapestry, these masks became emblematic of the Carnevale, enduring through the Renaissance. It was a sight to behold as roving troupes adorned in disguises brought laughter and mirth to the piazzas of Venice in the 1500s. However, this sparkling symbol of Venetian culture faced times of darkness, when they were outlawed by the Austrians in the 18th century and later by Mussolini in the 1930s.

Yet, the spirit of Venice proved indomitable. In 1979, the Carnival was revived, rekindling the storied heritage and rich culture of this enchanting city. Now, it beckons about 3 million souls to its winding calli each year, all eager to partake in the illustrious ‘festa Veneziana.’ It stands testament not just as the most significant celebration for Venice but as the crowning jewel of Carnival festivities in Italy.

Immerse yourself in the enchanting atmosphere of the Carnival Gala dinner in Venice, where you’ll encounter the true spirit of the Venetian festivities. Make sure to reserve your place soon, as opportunities to partake in this magical event always sell-out fast. Embrace the adventure while shrouded in a mysterious mask—the joy and excitement are promised to all who join.

2. Viareggio, TOSCANA

The charming coastal town of Viareggio, nestled within the heart of Tuscany, plays host to a Carnival celebration that is not only spectacular but also steeped in heartfelt tradition. Originating from the late 19th century, it began as a bold expression by the affluent bourgeois who sought a creative outlet for voicing their dissatisfaction with oppressive taxes. Today, that bold spirit lives on through the Carnival’s grandiose parades, which feature impressive papier-mâché floats that gently mock prominent political and cultural figures.

Each float is a testament to the passion and dedication of the craftsmen, who pour their hearts into their work, starting a full year in advance to ensure every intricate detail is perfected for this joyous occasion. It’s not just about the satire; these magnificent creations are marvels of artistry and engineering, embodying the collective pride of the community.

The Carnival spirit extends far beyond the floats, enveloping the town in a warm embrace with all-night musical dances—a tradition from the 1920s that continues to sprinkle magic throughout the streets of Viareggio. Picture this: Women elegantly adorned in themed attire, every accessory chosen with care to complement the night’s colour palette—jewelry, confetti, and decorations all in harmonious tint, set against the backdrop of the city’s enchanting Art Deco architecture. The atmosphere is one of poetic synergy, a true feast for the senses.

These jubilant festivities culminate on Fat Tuesday and the four preceding Sundays, captivating both residents and visitors alike. As the final parade draws to a close, the skies are ignited by a breathtaking fireworks display—a poignant farewell to another year’s memories made and shared. Even though there’s a fee to witness the parade, Viareggio’s Carnival is a generous host, offering an array of cultural events, concerts, and masked balls free of charge, ensuring that the joyous spirit is accessible to all who wish to partake in this beloved tradition.

3. Ronciglione, Lazio

The Ronciglione Carnival, acclaimed as the most exquisite carnival celebration in the Lazio region of Italy. Anxiously anticipated throughout the year, it captivates with its splendor and diversity of festivities. The central figures of this magnificent event are the “Nasorosso”, Who celebrate the pleasures of gastronomy and wine in honor of Bacchus, alongside the “Hussari”, representing the fifteenth-century Hungarian knights.

The ceremonial commencement of the Italian Carnival is marked by the “Cavalcata degli Hussari,” a commemoration of these valiant knights who once defended the Papal States. This is followed by the exhilarating “Corse dei Barberi”, or “Rorse a vuoto” – unique horse races that are conducted without riders. The grand festivities reach their crescendo with the parade of the “Nasi Rossi”, or “Pilatata”, a spectacle that embodies the joyful spirit of the carnival.

4. Putignano, Puglia

The vibrant region of Puglia, located in Italy’s picturesque southeastern area, boasts the town of Putignano, which is renowned for hosting the country’s longest Carnival celebration. Carnival, typically associated with riotous festivities, parades, and colorful costumes, is a pre-Lenten festival celebrated in various forms around the world, with each locale adding its own unique cultural flair.

In Putignano, the Carnival has ancient roots dating back to 1394, arguably making it one of the oldest of such celebrations in Europe. It began as a religious procession where the relics of Saint Stephen were transferred for protection during a time of danger. Over the centuries, this solemn procession evolved into a joyous, elaborate festival that extends beyond a single week.

What sets Putignano’s Carnival apart is its duration. Unlike the more famous, flashier counterpart in Venice, which lasts about two weeks, or the Brazilian Carnival that culminates in a nearly week-long frenzy of samba and celebration, the festivities in Putignano start just after Christmas and continue until the beginning of Lent. This extended season offers locals and visitors alike an opportunity to immerse themselves in an array of events spread over several weeks.

The Carnival of Putignano is marked by a series of playful and satirical events, with a highlight being the parade of elaborate floats and masked characters. These caricatures often represent political figures or current events, providing sharp social commentary wrapped in humour.

Another distinctive element is the “Festa delle Propaggini,” an early celebration within the Carnival where verses and chants are recited, setting the tone for the forthcoming merriments. The culmination of this long festive period is the “Funeral of the Carnival,” a mock ceremony held on Shrove Tuesday, symbolizing the end of the festivities and the transition into the contemplative season of Lent.

Participating in Putignano’s Carnival is a deep dive into the traditions of Puglia and Italian culture, where myth, history, and modernity dance hand in hand through the cobblestone streets. It’s a manifestation of the town’s spirit, where for weeks, the rule of King Carnival reigns, allowing the ordinary to become extraordinary through costume, comedy, and conviviality.

5. Acireale, SicilIA

The Carnival of Acireale touches the heart with its unique blend of beauty and joy, a celebration where the air is filled with the delightful scent of fresh flowers adorning the magnificent floats. Known as one of the most beautiful Carnivals in all of Italy, Acireale’s festive atmosphere is further enriched by these elaborate creations that gracefully roll down its baroque lanes.

As you walk through the historic streets, you can feel the union of tradition and creativity. It’s hard not to be moved by the allegorical papier-mâché sculptures that tell tales of culture and artistry, a true feast for the senses. In a tender nod to the past, these floats have replaced a once-messy tradition of tossing rotten eggs and lemons, transforming it into a refined and cultured display that includes the charming abbatazzi poets, whose spontaneous verses add a lyrical whisper to the ambiance.

Such is the charm of this event that the Carnival of Acireale has proudly earned the title of the “best Carnival in Sicily.” Its allure is undeniable, drawing people back to experience this exquisite sight and celebrating the sense of community it brings. In a gesture that feels like a continuous embrace, this carnival is so beloved that its wonder is recreated during the warm August summer, offering another chance to partake in its spellbinding magic. To delve deeper and be a part of this enchantment, you can visit the Carnival of Acireale.

6. Ivrea, Piedmont 

Embarking on a journey to the quaint, picturesque town of Ivrea, located not far from Turin, one is swept up into the vibrant and unique atmosphere of its Carnival. This extraordinary celebration is more than just a festival; it is a heartfelt homage to the courage of the townsfolk dating back to 1194, when an uprising against a tyrant’s rule ignited the flames of freedom.

Central to this emotional remembrance is the “Battle of the Oranges.” Participants, swept up in the carnival spirit, pay homage to their ancestors’ struggle by participating in an energetic and symbolic fruit-throwing battle. It traces its origins to the legendary act of a miller’s daughter, or “la Mugnaia,” whose defiance against an oppressive ruler’s malicious intentions sparked a revolution in the hearts of her people.

Each year, a local woman is carefully selected to embody the spirit of la Mugnaia, serving as a beacon of inspiration and resolve. Together, costumed as the fearless citizens of old, participants divide into teams – some aboard carts donning helmets reminiscent of the ancient soldiers, others on foot, portraying the undying spirit of Ivrea’s community itself.

The air is filled with more than just flying oranges; there’s a palpable sense of solidarity, a shared determination to never forget the past struggles for freedom and dignity. And for those whose hearts prefer peace over battle, donning a red hat offers a silent vow of observance, an unspoken bond of respect among the revelers. Additionally, one can find sanctuary behind protective nets, ensuring the safety and enjoyment for all.

The Carnival of Ivrea’s orange-throwing tradition connects fun with a profound respect for a history defined by bravery. It is not merely a game, but a lively, citrus-infused reminder of how people banded together against the shackles of injustice.

7. Fano, La Marche

Experience the warmth and joy of Fano’s Carnival, where not just any trinkets, but heaps of sweets, envelop you in a delightful surprise. Imagine the skies of Fano showering not confetti, but a sweet rain of candies and chocolates! Revelers beneath these generous masked floats are ready with their paper cones, eager to catch these sugary blessings.

This tradition, dating back to 1347, emerged from a brief truce between long-time rival families, marking the beginning of what now stands as Italy’s sweetest Carnival. It’s a celebration of peace, community, and pure happiness.

As the floats waltz through the streets of Fano, an air of anticipation and camaraderie fills the city until dusk descends. And then, as night cloaks the sky, the event culminates in a stunning “luminaria,” a festival of lights and fire that ignites the imagination and heats the cool night.

The crescendo of this compassionate festivity is the burning of a large papier-mâché puppet, affectionately known as “Pupo” or “Vulon.” Gathered in the main square on Mardi Gras, the community watches as the flames rise, symbolically devouring the chill of winter and the people’s transgressions, leaving behind a feeling of renewal and unity for all.

8. Cento, Emilia Romagna  

The Carnival of Cento, an event with historical references dating back to 1615, obtains its notoriety through frescoes by the local artist Gian Francesco “Guercino” Barbieri, which depict the festivity. Despite its longstanding history, the customs for which their Carnival is renowned are of a more modern inception.

In the dawn of the twentieth century, the residents of Cento conceived a sovereign figure emblematic of the Carnival—a representation of the community named Tasi. This symbolic king embodies the spirit of the Cento populace.

A pivotal moment of the Carnival occurs during the concluding procession when Tasi is consigned to flames set against the backdrop of the Rocca. This act is accompanied by a dramatic fireworks exhibition. Prior to the effigy’s immolation, a proclamation of Tasi’s testament is recited in the local vernacular, bequeathing his effects to distinguished inhabitants of Cento.

The year 1993 marked a significant milestone when the Cento Carnival formalised a twinning with the illustrious Carnival of Rio de Janeiro. Since then, the Carnival has incorporated the tradition of showcasing magnificent allegorical floats, much like those seen in the Rio Carnival. These parades, taking place over five Sundays leading up to Lent, traverse the city in multiple circuits and are characterised by the distribution of inflatable and soft objects to the spectators.

9. Foligno, Umbria

In the heart of Umbria, the celebration of carnival is not just an event—it’s a treasured tradition that weaves the fabric of the community together with threads of joy and unity. The Carnival of Sant’Eraclio in Foligno, with its rich history dating all the way back to 1542, stands as a moving symbol of this cultural tapestry.

Originating from the humble inception by the Olivetan Friars of Mormonzone, the festival was distinguished from elite festivities, extending an inclusive invitation to all. Participation in the Carnival of Sant’Eraclio transcends mere observation; one is enveloped into a tradition that gracefully reveals the genuine ethos of Umbria.

As the elaborately designed floats make their procession down the avenues, they convey narratives that resonate deeply within us, establishing a connection to the collective experiences of both the residents and the guests of the area. In these moments, the vibrant essence of Umbria is most palpable, with the cadence of music and the harmonies of mirth filling the skies.

Every corner of the thoroughfares is adorned with elaborate decorations, transforming the standard passageways into a tableau of fantastical charm. Attired in costumes that signify our historical heritage and partaking in traditional gastronomy, we gather to celebrate not merely the cuisine, but the exuberance of existence.

Through a seamless blend of heritage and progress, the Carnival of Sant’Eraclio stands as a testament to Umbria’s commitment to its past whilst embracing the novel. It reaffirms the notion that joy is a timeless and universal aspect of the human condition, and that communal revelry is an integral aspect of our societal fabric.

10. Milan, LomabardiA

In the beautiful and historic city of Milan, residents share a unique bond with their cherished patron saint, Sant’Ambrogio. Reflecting their deep respect for him, the city lovingly honors his request, made many years ago, to delay the Carnival celebrations until after his return from a heartfelt pilgrimage. This poignant tradition has given rise to the Ambrosian Carnival—Milan’s very own version of the festivities. Embraced with warmth and anticipation, the city comes alive with joy and color that peak on the Saturday following Fat Tuesday, creating moments that are treasured by the community and visitors alike. For more about Milan check out my post MILAN-ITALY’S METROPOLIS

THEY DON’T CALL IT FAT TUESDAY FOR NOTHING!

“Indulge in the feast of life, for Carnival is the gateway to open our souls and let our spirits soar.” – Anonymous

In Italy regardless of where you find yourself during Carnevale, you can’t help but be swept up in the sheer joy that percolates through these celebrations, each offering its own unique spin on the season’s indulgent culinary and festive traditions. Stepping into any local supermarket or bakery becomes a moment of pure temptation as you’re greeted by the generous array of traditional treats particular to Carnevale. It can be a tad overwhelming as the counters overflow with mouthwatering options but fear not, I’ve compiled a list of the quintessential patisserie and sweets from all over the country to get you started.

1. Bombolini alla crema or bombe alla crema (Mini donuts filled with pastry cream) – These are not your average donut or bombolino; they are bite-size, and the dough is as light as air, they are filled to bursting with custard and eaten in one mouthful. Total decadence!

2. Castagnole, originated in Emilia-Romagna but are now found across Italy, albeit with variations from town to town and family to family. These little fried balls, named after the chestnut (castagna) because of their shape, are similar in texture to a doughnut with a slightly crisp exterior and a light, fluffy centre.

3. Chiacchiere (fried dough strips) Also called frappe in Umbria or cenci, these crispy, delightful strips of fried dough are popular throughout Italy.

4. Cannoli Sicily’s glorious, ricotta-filled fried wafers were originally a Carnival dessert, but are now popular year-round. But you can also try cannoncini alla crema as featured below, these treats are a cross between a donut and a cannoli.

5. Fritole Veneziane (Venetian Carnival fritters) These sugar-dusted doughnuts flavoured with rum and lemon zest contain pine nuts, raisins, and occasionally a custard, zabaglione, or pastry cream filling.

6. Migliaccio (lemon and ricotta cake) This wonderful Neapolitan Carnival treat gets its soft crumb from semolina flour and fresh ricotta cheese. It’s like the American cheesecake’s lighter, fluffier cousin.

7. Stuffoli, a Neapolitan dish made of deep fried balls of sweet dough, served in small heaps or rings. Crunchy on the outside and light inside, struffoli are mixed with honey and other sweet ingredients. The marble-sized treats are fried in boiling oil and seasoned with honey, aniseed liquer and decorated with colored sugared almonds. In Calabria they are also known as scalilli, and in Abruzzo cicerchiata.

8. Sanguinaccio, This uniquely rich and creamy a chocolate pudding made with pig’s blood hails from Naples and proves once again the creativity of Italian cuisine.

9. Schiacciata, also called ciaccia or schiaccia, is a typical carnevale treat in Florence. It is a soft, low cake, made with simple ingredients of flour, milk, butter, sugar and eggs, and decorated with the ancient emblem of Florence.

10.Turtlitt, traditionally prepared in Emilia Romagna during carnevale season, there are numerous variations of these fried sweets depending on the geographical area. The origins of turtlitt date back to the village of S. Antonio in Piacenza in mediaeval times. Some are filled with boiled chestnuts, others with mostarda or black chocolate.

11.Tortelli Dolci (baked sweet ravioli with ricotta and chocolate chips) Unlike most Italian Carnival desserts, this one is baked, not fried. These delicious tortellis are a healthier alternative to cannoli. Although tortelli di carnevale in Tuscany are a little more decadent – Small, fried dough balls filled with ricotta cheese and lemon zest – are the perfect nibble for the grand parade.

12. Le graffe best known and widespread though especially in the South. Its origin, German, can be attributed to the period of the Austrian domination of Italy in the 700’s.These delicious donuts are made of flour, sugar, melted butter and boiled potatoes. Then after being fried sprinkled with sugar. Also for this dessert there is the light version, where instead of being fried they are baked in the oven at 190 °.

Carnevale is a magnificent celebration that splendidly showcases Italy’s vibrant cultural heritage that offers one and all the opportunity to don whimsical masquerade attire, join in the euphoria and indulge in guilt-free sweet pastries. And as they say “When in Rome, do as the Romans do,” So let’s raise our glasses, overflowing with joy and confetti, to the brilliance of Carnevale— A true embodiment of the Italian zest for life, in all its festive glory.

‘Carnevale ogni scherzo vale!’