SARDEGNA: THE WILD, WINDY WEST COAST

As the days grow longer and the grip of winter begins to ease, your thoughts may be turning towards the spring and summer holidays. And for those yet to experience Sardinia’s glory, I can’t think of anywhere better to explore than the island’s wild, windy west coast. With its miles of unspoiled coastline, emerald seas, golden beaches, soaring cliffs, and aromatic Mediterranean scrub, along with incredible cuisine that, over the centuries, has been heavily influenced by the Spaniards and Moors.

In this post, I’ll share my experience of the incredible landscape that I believe makes this a must-visit destination for any avid traveler.

For more about this impressive island, check out my posts, SARDENGA: A TRIP TO BOUNTIFUL I & II.

Though less frequented by tourists, Sardinia’s west coast provides an unspoilt, nature-driven alternative to the lively nightlife and designer-influenced villages of the northeast made famous by Aga Khan, who co-founded the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda in Porto Cervo for his wealthy friends in 1967.

GETTING THERE:

On my last visit to Sardinia, I drove from Costa Rei via Cagliari and then up the west coast to the port of Olbia. If you have the time, this is a fantastic road trip that gives you a true sense of the island’s natural beauty.

Alghero Airport: Northwest Sardinia

Alghero-Riviera del Corallo Airport is an international airport situated 4.3 NM north-northwest of the city of Alghero, in northern Sardinia, Italy. It is also known as Alghero-Fertilia Airport due to the close-by villages of Fertilia and Alghero.

Ferry Port: Northwest Sardinia

Porto Torres is an ancient town with Roman architecture (it was the first Roman settlement, so needless to say, its history is very rich). It is a quaint old town with old city walls, stunning nearby beaches, and hiking. Tirreni or Grandi Navi Veloci, ferry companies sail into Porto Torres from mainland Italy.

Costa Verde

Beautiful beaches and striking cliffs that gently cascade into the shimmering sea can be found throughout Costa Verde’s 47 km of coastline, which stretches from Capo Frasca in the north to Capo Pecora in the south. This is the place where enormous dunes and soft desert sands combine, and magnificent Sardinian deer wander between sturdy juniper trees that bow low to the force in this windswept haven at sunrise. As the northwest wind sweeps across the Mediterranean, it blows a gale, creating thrilling conditions for all lovers of water sports, and many of the golden beaches turn into a surfer’s paradise, offering waves that can reach astonishing heights of four meters.

Along this unspoiled stretch of coastline, you’ll find cozy, family-run farmhouses and quaint B&Bs that offer visitors on any budget the opportunity to capture the simple essence of Sardinian life. Costa Verde was named for the beautiful arbutus trees that sag down to the water’s edge. And the rich, verdant shrubbery that surrounds the shoreline still provides a perfect nesting ground for loggerhead turtles.

PISCINAS AND SCIVU

The Piscinas, has ten kilometers of stunning coastline, is home to the tallest dunes in Europe, and is one of the area’s main attractions. These stunning dunes cover more than 3,000 hectares and have been dubbed the “Sahara of Italy” because of their remarkable resemblance to a portion of the African Sahara. But be warned, the road to the beach is long, narrow, and very bumpy. Nonetheless, after making the arduous drive, you’ll find a paid car park (very unexpected), along with a few eateries and bars at the water’s edge, as well as a tiny lido that has restrooms and changing areas.

Scivu offers a perfect, tranquil day at the beach, as its location is quite secluded. This paradise, which resembles a desert oasis, has three kilometers of golden, soft sand stretching from the mountains to the sea. Bordering the beach, you’ll find fragrant Mediterranean scrub and sand dunes peppered with sea lilies, broom, and juniper.

TORRE DEI CORSARI

The town of Torre dei Corsari is named after the Spanish watchtower. The 17th-century Flumentorgiu tower, which formerly defended the area from roving Saracen pirates, stoically stands as a reminder of its valiant past. From this advantageous location, you can see a bay with massive limestone cliffs that appear to reach forever toward the blue sky to the south. Gazing north, the vast expanse of the Is Arenas’e S’Acqua’e s’Ollastru beach will amaze you with its rocky fortifications and secluded coves. For those who find comfort in fishing, this is more than just a beach; it is a sanctuary where the sea rekindles long-simmering passions in a fisherman’s heart.

Torre dei Corsari’s 1.5-kilometer beach is a magnificent mosaic of golden dunes sculpted into gently rolling hills by the constant mistral winds. Vibrant wallflowers, sand poppies, and sea lilies add color to the Mediterranean flora in the springtime and make a dramatic contrast with the sandy beach. As twilight draws near, take in the breathtaking views in every direction or carefully head to the edge of the cliff to witness the most magnificent magenta sunsets.

Since most of the Costa Verde is uninhabited, you’ll find plenty of fully equipped camping sites, including facilities for those with disabilities. Torre de Corsari also has a large range of hotels and B&B’s. Also, one of the best meals I had on the west coast was served here, at Mates Restaurant by the Sea. The name may sound off-putting, but its well worth adding an overnight stop to your itinerary just to sample this chef’s delicious, fresh, creative cuisine.

PROVINCE OF ORISTANO

The province of Oristano serves as the gateway to an expanse of coastal splendour that seems to stretch into eternity. The region’s coastline is a masterpiece of nature’s artistry, where shimmering emerald waves kiss golden sands, and rugged cliffs stand majestically over the Mediterranean Sea.

The allure of Oristano extends beyond its picturesque landscapes; the province is also a custodian of the island’s venerable history and culture. Through its historical monuments, one can trace the footsteps of bygone civilizations. The silent stones of ancient ruins whisper tales of the Nuragic people, whose mysterious edifices, such as the Nuraghe Losa, continue to inspire awe and wonder.

Head to the picturesque Santu Lussurgiu, which boasts breathtaking views of the coast and a delightful historic center. Here you’ll find the magnificent church of San Leonardo de Siete Fuentes, which features seven gushing fountains.

The province of Oristano offers more than just a spectacular, unspoiled coastline, as further inland, the Montiferru mountain range beckons with its towering peaks and wild beauty. Discover the regions of Ghilarzese and Barigadu, with their ancient forests. And Guilcer, the island’s center region, is well known for its thriving trade and cross-cultural interactions. Discover the vast Lake Omodeo reservoir, the fertile Tirso river plain, and the basaltic plateau. Here you can also explore archeological gems like the stunning nuraghe of Losa di Abbasanta. The Barigadu region, south of Lake Omodeo, is a picture of Mediterranean charm, with verdant cork oak forests and the breathtaking Assai natural oasis. Witness the fauna of the area, which encompasses a variety of avian species, including fallow deer, wild boar, and Sardinian deer. See the historic rural buildings in the towns of Allai and Busachi.

Fordongianus

A must visit is Fordongianus along the Tirso River to see the historic Roman baths. Built as a central city under Emperor Trajan to link the surrounding communities with the coastal residents of the Gulf of Oristano. Fordongianus is well-known for its year-round 56°C hot spring spa, which was also frequented by the Romans, who called its healing waters Aquae Ypsitanae. Explore the first-century bath ruins and see remnants of the ancient mosaic floors. You can also visit the Sardegna Grand Hotel Terme and enjoy world-class spa treatments or simply enjoy the thermal pools.

THE CITY OF ORISTANO

Oristano, a city rich in history and culture, lies at the mouth of the Tirso on the northern edge of the Campidano plain. This city, which has been the capital of the province since 1974, houses the Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral, built in 1228. Features like the sandstone Tower of Mariano II and the Tower of Portixedda from 1291 are the remaining parts of the former city walls. This city also boasts the neoclassical Palazzo Parpaglia, housing L’Antiquarium Arborense, a home to various archaeological collections.

The city offers a blend of culture, art, history, and nature, providing a unique experience in every season.

The city is also home to one of Italy’s most well-known horse competitions, the Sartiglia. Sa Sartiglia is one of the most ancient and spectacular horse races in the Mediterranean area. It is held every year on the last Sunday of Lent and on Shrove Tuesday. Sa Sartiglia has its roots in the Spanish domination period and has been celebrated every year since 1546. As many as a hundred horse riders, championed by Su Componidori, gallop at full speed through the streets with the aim of piercing star-shaped tokens, simply known as “la stella,” with their swords.

ARTS AND CRAFTS OF ORISTANO

ORISTANO preserves long-standing artisan traditions, and throughout the city you’ll find craftsmen who meticulously create ceramics, plaited baskets, and exquisite gold and silver jewelry that embody the intricate, ornamental designs of the past. The local cuisine is equally unique, with native dishes featuring mullet roe, salted dried fish, and varied eel recipes. While dessert lovers can indulge in mustazzolus, made with wine must, a byproduct of wine fermentation.

For those with an interest in history, the province of Oristano is a treasure trove of historical sites from varying eras. Explore the remains of the ancient Sardinian Nuragic civilization, marvel at the Spanish watchtowers, or delve into the history of the medieval Judicates-era fortifications. Echoes of Roman occupation can also be found scattered throughout the city.

Art and culture enthusiasts will also find inspiration in the numerous galleries and museums housing Sardinian artwork and antiques. A couple of my favourite galleries showcasing local art in Oristano city were the ISOLA Artigianato Artistico, Luce Buio Ceramiche Artistiche, and C.M.A. Ceramica Maestri d’Arte.

Torregrande

Just ten minutes by car from the heart of Oristano, you can find the serene hamlet of Torregrande. The town earns its name from the imposing structure of Sa Turri Manna, which translates to ‘The Big Tower’—the highest of the Spanish watchtowers that stand as sentinels along the scenic Sardinian coastline. These towers, with a rich history spanning centuries, were originally built to protect the island from invaders and now serve as historical monuments, offering a glimpse into the past.

The charming promenade is another treasure of Torregrande. Stretching along the famously contrasting sands of the beach, from the soft, powdery white sand that feels like walking on clouds to the coarse, golden-hued grains known locally as ‘grossi,’.

Torregrande also has a well-equipped marina with over 400 berths, which provides a perfect sanctuary for sailors touring the west coast.

BOSA MARINA

With its crystal-clear waters, breathtaking cliffs, and charming beach town vibe, this seaside resort may be one of the more recent additions to the area, but it has quickly become a beloved hotspot for tourists and locals alike.

The most stunning feature of Bosa Marina is its long, arc of golden sand, sheltered from the strong winds of the mistral by the harbor pier and the picturesque Aragonese tower dell’Isola Rossa. This tower, built in the 16th century, adds historic charm and serves as a popular spot for photographers.

BOSA

A short drive from the modern marina is Bosa’s Old Town, where, as you traverse its cobblestoned streets, you’ll be transported back in time amongst the colourful houses and artisan workshops. And don’t miss the chance to climb to the top of Serravalle Castle, where you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the town and surrounding countryside. .

Bosa is also home to several churches and monuments, such as the Church of the Immaculate Conception and the town’s cathedral, adorned with stunning frescoes. While inside the Serravalle Castle, you’ll find the Church of Our Lady de Sos Regnos Altos, featuring frescoes dating back to 1370. The town’s cobbled streets are lined with unique shops filled with local artisan foods, alongside skilled artisans practicing lacemaking and glass blowing. Also in the medieval district of Sa Costa, you can snap photos of the impressive Sa Funtana Manna, a 19th-century monument carved from red trachyte

And no visit to Bosa would be complete without indulging in some of the region’s specialties, like pecorino cheese, salami, and Sardinian pastries. You’ll find plenty of cozy outdoor cafes in the main square, offering the perfect spot to relax and savor these delicious treats. And, as the day winds down perhaps treat yourself to a glass of the local Malvasia wine while watching the sunset over Bosa’s iconic Ponte Vecchio. And for dinner, I highly recommend RISTORANTE S’ISCUGIA,

Capo Marrargiu Bio-Marine Park

For those who love hiking and birdwatching, Capo Marrargiu Bio-Marine Park and the Nature Reserve of Badde Aggiosu, Marrargiu, and Monte Mannu offer an abundance of natural trails and hikes to explore. While above, if you’re lucky, you might spot the magnificant Griffon Vulture as it circles the skies.

ALGHERO

As you’ll see from the photo below, the drive along the picturesque route that links Bosa and Alghero is breathtakingly gorgeous.

Alghero is nestled along the northwest coast of Sardinia, With a population of 44,000, it is the fifth-largest city in Sardinia and serves as the island’s main harbor town, home to Fertilia airport and the beloved walkway along the port’s bastions. Take in the stunning views of the red roofs and shoreline known as the Coral Riviera, world-renowned for its 90 kilometer long coral colony.

To really discover Alghero’s unique culture, make sure to visit the churches of Santa Maria, Carmel, San Michele, and Sant’Anna, as well as Casa Manno and the Coral Museum, where you can witness firsthand the skilled craftsmanship behind Sardinia’s renowned red coral jewelry.

The city was also once a Spanish colony and still retains traces of its Catalan culture, from street names to restaurants serving classic Catalan cuisine.

If you want to immerse yourself in the tastes and ambience of Alghero, I’d highly recommend a visit to the agriturismo SA MANDRA. Arrive hungry, though, because their food offerings are just as delicious as they are plentiful. ned: arrive hungry, as their food offerings are as delicious as they are abundant.

A short distance from Alghero’s city centre, you’ll find the picturesque dunes and turquoise waters of Maria Pia, where ancient juniper trees stand tall. This idyllic city beach is well serviced by restaurants, bars, and lidos, making it a lively spot to relax after a day exploring the city.

Le Bombarde

Just a twenty-minute drive north from Alghero, you’ll arrive at Le Bombarde Beach, famous for its super-clear water, soft sand, and abundant sea life. This is a great spot for families looking for fun, young folks wanting thrills, or anyone into surfing. Not far from there is Lazzaretto Beach, which is actually made up of ten little beach coves with lovely golden sand, for those who prefer peace and quiet.

If you go further still, you’ll find Mugoni. It’s a peaceful place with a lovely beach inside Porto Conte Bay. The sand is golden, and the water is clear and calm. And around Capo Caccia-Isola Piana you’ll find Neptune’s Cave, which you can visit by boat from the tourist harbour or by taking the scenic Escala del Cabirol staircase. (see picture below.)

STINTINO

Our final destination on the west coast of Sardinia is the enchanting town of Stintino. Located on a narrow strip of land sandwiched between two seas,. To the west, you find the untamed “outside sea” with its towering cliff lines, sandy inlets, and rocky shores stretching from Capo Falcone to the beautiful Cala del Vapore. Then, there’s the “inner sea,” a placid coastline running from Pelosa to Le Saline and Ezzi Mannu, adorned by white pebbles. Nestled in the heart of the terrain are the Cesaraccio and Pilo ponds, home to several bird species.

La Pelosa Beach, with its immaculate white sands and serene blue-hued sea, is the jewel in this area. Next to this, the islet of Pelosetta, hosts an Aragonese tower dating from 1578. You can enjoy breathtaking views of Asinara National Park and Piana Island from the elevated “terrace” of his “tropical” beach.

Cala d’Oliva on Asinara is similar to Stintino, which was founded in 1885 as a small fishing village. The town is well-known for having a large number of wooden gozzo boats in its ports. The area was closely linked to the tuna fishing industry, but as the industry declined, tourism progressively replaced it. A surge in tourism in the 1960s resulted in the building of numerous homes and hotels along the coast. Stintino is home to just 1,600 year-round residents, but in the summer months, tens of thousands of tourists visit the town.

The local food scene is heavily influenced by Stintino’s fishing heritage, And dishes like lobster soup, Stintino-style octopus, and tuna bottarga are common.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Sardinia’s west coast truly is a paradise waiting to be explored. From its golden beaches and crystal-clear waters to its breathtaking landscapes and delicious regional cuisines. As David Herbert Lawrence wrote in 1921, ‘This land resembles no other place. Sardinia is something else. Enchanting spaces and distances to travel—nothing finished, nothing definitive. It is like freedom itself’.

And if you are inspired to visit, I’d love to hear your thoughts. Buon Viaggio!

Stay tuned for my next Sardinian adventure as I explore the La Magdallena archipelago and the northeastern tip of this amazing island.