As a companion piece to my The Umbrian Chalice – An Education in Oenology post on the excellent wines of the region, in this post I explore the dishes, ingredients and flavours that make this green heart of Italy unique and a gastronome’s paradise for any lover of authentic Italian cuisine.
The most noteworthy characteristic of Umbrian cuisine is its simplicity, which relies on seasonal produce. It is a place where the habit of sourcing food by the kilometer is centuries old and folks still forage for wild delicacies such as bitter greens, asparagus, fennel, mushrooms, and truffles. It’s where pork, wild boar, rabbit, pigeon, saffron, and some very special lentils reign supreme, and everything comes drizzled with some of what I believe is the best olive oil in Italy.
So let’s tuck-into a treasure trove of Umbrian, food drawn from this fertile landscape as I share 21 of my favourite culinary offerings that are truly a must-try for any self-respecting foodie!
We can’t talk about authentic Italian cuisine without talking about bread. Every region has its own traditions and types of bread. Bread in Italy started in Roman society around 170 BC when the Greeks taught Romans to bake leavened bread. By 147 BC, having a Greek slave-baker was a status symbol. The scarcity of wheat because of urban expansion and cattle farming led to imported wheat and overseas recipes, creating the different regional bread types we have today, like the transformation of Arabic flatbreads into Italy’s piadina.
Bread was so important in Rome that emperors said the best way to content people was with “bread and circuses.” While circuses are no longer popular, bread remains crucial in the Italian diet, being part of almost every meal.
In Umbria, the bread doesn’t have salt and reflects its humble origins. Pane sciapo or sciocco as it’s know, is believed to have originated from a protest by the bakers linked to the Perugia Salt War in 1540. The city rebelled against Pope Paul III Farnese due to the heavy tax on salt he imposed. The Perugians, who should have been exempt from the duty, started the Salt War as a symbol of their resentment towards papal control. As a legacy of this conflict, bland or silly bread remains in the Perugian ovens as a healthy food, excellent if enjoyed together with Umbrian norcineria products or toasted to accompany soups and hot dishes.
To prepare this crumbly bread, start the day before by making a pre-dough for a light and well-leavened loaf. The rising times can change if you use sourdough instead of brewer’s yeast. In the evening, mix flour with water and yeast, let it rise, then refrigerate overnight. The next day, add more water and yeast, gradually pour in the flour, knead, let it rise, then bake in a hot oven for 30 minutes at 200 ° C.
Its scent will envelop the kitchen and, as soon as it is baked, it will be irresistible for its crunchy crust and soft heart! In addition to this simple loaf, there are several other notable Umbrian breads listed below.
Torta al testo is the traditional focaccia from Umbria, which can be found throughout the region. When I say traditional, I mean it: Testo is the name of the stone plate used by the Ancient Romans upon which focaccia was cooked. It comes in many different varieties. But the favourite of most locals remain the traditional: local cheese, Pecorino Umbro.
You can find this delicious bread made to order at Citta della Pieve’s amazing sandwich shop (panini) Il Pizzicagnolo , they have a delightful array of Torta al testo here.
The Arvortolo is a type of fried pizza most commonly eaten during the traditional village feasts. The name means flipped in the local dialect, as the pizza is flipped continuously on either side to ensure proper cooking.
What is this fried pizza made of? Nothing could be simpler: Flour, oil, and salt. This traditional Umbrian food also exists in a sweet version, in which salt is substituted by sugar.
Typical of the Orvieto area, lumachella is a savoury pastry/bread that can be eaten hot or cold. The small flans are made of flour, water, lard, oil, pecorino cheese, pepper and diced bacon. It is named after its snail shape, and made by rolling up strips of flaky pastry. And on the subject of snails these are also a delicacy of the region, drenched in garlic oil and served with crispy bread.
While it is true that the region is famed for charcuterie there are plenty of veggie (vegetarian) options to be found on menus throughout the region. Below I list some of my favourites:
A perfect example of simple Italian cooking at its best, this broad beans and Pecorino cheese recipe graces almost every dinner table in Umbria. Use the best quality ingredients you can find – a good olive oil is a must.
Another wonderful dish is to combine these 3 ingredients with a splash of lemon juice in a food processor, whizz them together until smooth and you have a yummy spread or dip.
Chickpea Chestnut Soup (Zuppa di Ceci e Castagne) is a hearty and healthy soup, it is also vegan and gluten-free and absolutely delectable. This velvety, flavourful soup is a perfect blend of chickpeas and chestnuts, bringing warmth and comfort in every spoonful. The rich nuttiness of the chestnuts combines harmoniously with the earthy, creamy texture of chickpeas, creating a truly indulgent culinary experience. The traditional roots of this soup reflect the authentic flavours of Umbrian cuisine, making it a delightful choice for anyone seeking a taste of Italy’s culinary heritage. Whether enjoyed as a starter or a satisfying main course, this soup is a versatile and nutritious option for any occasion.
The difficult name of this recipe needs to be broken down in two to better explain this dish. Farrecchiata is a method of preparation, in which a legume or a grain gets dusted with flour and then cooked as Polenta. Roveja, on the other end, is the name of one of the typical legumes – belonging to the family of peas – from Umbria and in fact, can only be found in this region and in neighbouring Marche. The Farrecchiata di roveja is basically polenta with peas, just better! The cook adds a melt of oil, garlic, anchovies, and sage to the polenta & pea mix.
Let me tell you when ingredients are combined it created a real feast for the taste-buds! And vegetarian or not, If there is one traditional Umbrian food you must try its this.
Acquacotta is a traditional soup hailing from the Gubbio area but it can also be found in many areas of Tuscany and Lazio. It is one of the region’s most popular bread-based soups. Translating as ‘cooked water’, this peasant dish was invented as a way of using up stale bread and whichever herbs and vegetables shepherds and farmers had to hand. For this reason, there is no one ‘true’ recipe of acquacotta. A favorite local version uses bitter greens and is finished with poached eggs cooked directly in the broth.
Impastare in Italian means to knead, and indeed there is a lot of kneading in this age-old Umbrian food of Polenta and Borlotti beans! Traditional and with a long agricultural history farmers typically used legumes instead of meat, which was only eaten on Sundays. And, on winter night, they often prepared polenta to warm up and find comfort from daily fatigue.
Thankfully for us, their ingenuity gave us this delicious, healthy, and nutrient-packed winter recipe.
Scafata is a traditional Umbrian stew. The dish is made with a combination of broad beans (fava beans), Swiss chard, tomatoes, white wine, olive oil, chili peppers, carrots, onions, celery and rosemary.
The carrots, onions, celery, rosemary, and chili peppers are chopped and sautéed in olive oil in an earthenware dish (in the oven) or a heavy saucepan. The broad beans, white wine, tomato passata, and salt are added to the pan and the stew is simmered for more than an hour. The Swiss chard is added near the end of cooking. It can also be enjoyed with a poached egg.
The region’s most ubiquitous pasta, similar to the Sienese pici, is distinguished by being made from flour and water rather than flour and egg. Umbricelli is a pasta variety reminiscent of spaghetti – though it’s a little bit larger and definitely shorter. They look a bit like pici toscani, a pasta variety from Umbria’s “neighbor,” Tuscany, but their shape is slightly wider and thicker. Traditionally, umbricelli are dressed with a simple tomato sauce and the region’s famous, sweet elephant garlic called Aglione, then topped with a generous sprinkling of grated pecorino cheese. The other favourite is Cacio Pepe which is Umbricelli swirled in a wheel of Cacio cheese and topped with fresh black pepper, simply scrumptious. The shape of this pasta makes it easy to combine with many different sauces.
It is said that one must start the day with a hearty breakfast and the farmers of Paciano, an enchanting village a few kilometers from Lake Trasimeno have probably known this for centuries. As for breakfast they’ll enjoy brosega, a dish halfway between Israeli shakshuka and Neapolitan eggs in purgatory. Preparation is simple: Sauté tomatoes with a little extra virgin olive oil and onion in a skillet, until you get a markedly coarse sauce, to which you add eggs then top with wild herbs and pepper (Or chilli to spice it up). if you not a fan of eggs you can use a fresh soft cheese or ricotta. And lastly, it is forbidden to use the plate! The best brosega is the one fished directly from the pan/skillet with a spoon and crusty homemade bread.
From late April until early June you’ll see grandma’s and grandpa’s foraging in fields and roadside verges for wild asparagus. Wild asparagus is thinner than regular asparagus, but has a more pronounced “asparagus” flavor. And Strigoli, also known as Carletti or Bubbolini is a wild herb like grass that can also found in the countryside or along waterways. Here in Umbria these ingredients are most often used in risotto or fresh pasta dishes. Strigoli like asparagus also makes an excellent side dish, just sauté it with some garlic. But in the Umbrian Valley between Foligno and Spoleto they also combine both these wild ingredients to create an earthy, velvety risotto.
Umbrian meat is truly a culinary delight, bursting with flavor that can only be achieved through the region’s farm-to-table approach. The meat is sourced locally, ensuring the highest quality and freshness. And the cooking methods used in Umbria are simply mouthwatering. Whether it’s ‘alla brace’ on the embers, ‘arrostito’ in the oven, or ‘in umido’ stewed in the colder months, each preparation method brings out unique and delicious flavors.
Now let’s talk about one of Umbria’s most famous meat dishes: Porchetta. This savory delight has gained popularity not just within the region, but all over Italy. If you travel through the country, you’ll spot chefs in vans with enormous joints of porchetta, selling freshly filled sandwiches that will make your taste buds dance with joy. The combination of succulent pork, aromatic herbs, and crispy skin is simply irresistible. It’s no wonder that porchetta has become a staple in Italian cuisine.
But Umbria doesn’t stop at porchetta. The region is also renowned for its cured pork and beef, transformed into delicate charcuterie. These cured meats are the perfect accompaniment to a glass of the region’s crisp wine or a rich, complex red.Each bite is a journey through the rich flavors and traditions of the green heart of Italy.
It would be impossible to write about food in Umbria without mentioning the ever-present Pasta alla Norcina. This joy for the (carnivorous) palate is made with a sauce of onion, garlic, pork sausage, ricotta cheese, black pepper, and local black truffle. It is the quintessential plate of Norcia, which is renowned for its Norcinerie (shops focused on pork-based charcuterie) and truffles.
The names of this typical winter plate are difficult to understand, even for an Italian, therefore it deserves an explanation, actually two. Fricco’ could either come from Latin or French and it refers to the different manners of cooking meat.
Eugubina means from Gubbio the foremost example of a medieval city in Umbria and a must-see on every trip through this beautiful region. So in short, this traditional Umbrian food is a stew of white meat (normally either lamb, rabbit or goose) both braised and seared, served with potatoes and vegetables and sprinkled with the ever-present aromatic herbs. Nothing better to withstand the cold winters in the Umbrian hills!
Foodie Tip: If you are staying in Gubbio, be sure to check out their locally run street food tour. Try some typical food staples from Gubbio and bring food souvenirs back from trusted artisanal food shops.
The freshwater fish of Lake Trasimeno (and, to a lesser extent, Lake Chiusu and Lake Montepulciano) are generally cooked whole over fire or in soupy stews like tegamaccio. Any combination of fish can be included, although it’s usually perch and eel, and the sauce is made of a combination of garlic, celery, white wine and chopped tomatoes. The sauce is left quite soupy and liquid – perfect for mopping up with a few pieces of torta al testo.
Have you ever heard of a dish called Gallina Ubriaca? Think French Coq Au Vin with an Umbrian twist. It’s the most tantalizing and mouthwatering chicken dish you’ll ever taste! This delectable creation hails from the beautiful city of Terni, and it’s a culinary masterpiece. The name itself, “drunken hen,” is enough to make your taste buds tingle with anticipation. Imagine succulent pieces of chicken, cooked to perfection, bathing in a rich and flavourful sauce made from the finest Umbrian red wine and wild aromatic herbs. It’s a harmonious blend of sweet and savory, with just the right amount of richness. So, if you ever find yourself in Terni or southern Umbria, make sure to seek out this extraordinary dish. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!
The classic Umbrian recipe, which unlike the tuscan version includes the addition of bacon. It is slow cooked for several hours with a full-bodied red wine and a rich tomato sauce with aromatic herbs until the meat is melt in your mouth tender. It is often served with a soft polenta. This is the best way to try wild boar, so If you love an intense and gamey flavour, you can’t miss the opportunity to taste this dish.
It’s a typical dish from Perugia (in fact called in other parts of Italy “Parmigiana alla Perugina”), cooked especially during the Christmas period, often as a course for lunch on Christmas Day, after cappelletti and the roast. To make Parmigiana di Gobbi – you use the stalks of the cardoni plant, which is a type of thistle, it resembles a somewhat distorted stalk of celery with a soft suede feel, cardoni Italian artichoke, also known as cardoon. When cooked, it becomes soft and meaty. The extraordinary flavor is rather complex, tasting both bitter and sweet at the same time. The stalks are boiled and fried with flour and beaten eggs, cut into strips are then arranged in layers in a baking dish, alternate with bechamel and tomato sauce or a traditional meat sauce made with veal and pork.
One of the most beloved delicacies of Umbria is pigeon. This humble bird is prepared in various delectable ways. One of the most popular preparations involves cooking the pigeon under ashes, infusing it with the fragrant flavours of bay leaves, cloves, sage, rosemary, marjoram, and juniper berries in accordance with an ancient and time-honored recipe. This method not only imparts a unique smokiness to the meat but also brings out the rich, earthy flavours that make this dish truly exceptional.
In addition to the ash-cooked pigeon, another notable rendition is the ‘pigeon alla ghiotta’. In this exquisite dish, the pigeon is carefully roasted on a spit to perfection, then expertly stuffed before being served with a luscious reduction jus that perfectly complements the tender and succulent meat. The blend of spices and herbs used in both preparations reflects the deep-rooted culinary traditions of Umbria and showcases the region’s commitment to preserving its heritage through its exceptional gastronomy.
To savour this regional delicacy, I recommend visiting Villa Veronica in Città di Castello or Trattoria La Palomba in Orvieto.
Italians love desserts and Umbria most certainly does the country proud! So do save room for dessert.
Cantucci, the twice baked Tuscan almond cookie that is best dunked into a glass of Vin Santo wine are very well known worldwide. Tozzetti, are very similar to cantucci in preparation and appearance, but are often made with a combination of almonds, hazelnuts, raisins and saffron. Since I first moved to Umbria, I’ve had many versions of tozzetti, and below is my favourite which contains no fat. The result, a very crisp biscotti perfect for dunking into a creamy breakfast cappuccino or glass of sweet wine.
This typical dessert from Perugia is traditionally prepared for the towns patron-saint day, Saint Costanzo, and has a long list of popular tales linked to its origins: One story suggests the shape refers to the beheaded neck of the Saint. Others link it to the gems-laced necklace the saint used to wear, others say – in a more prosaic fashion – that its hole was simply used to hang the dessert during the city’s celebrations.
Regardless, what is true is that Perugia’s maidens used to offer this dessert to Saint Costanzo’s image hoping he would wink back at them – A sure sign of an impending wedding. But, if the statue wasn’t inclined to perform this less-than-ordinary gesture, the girls would receive the dessert back as a consolation prize.
The Torcolo di San Costanzo has its origin in popular Umbrian cuisine, hence it’s humble – but delicious! Ingredients: Water, flour, lard, sugar, and sweets like raisins, pine seeds, and anise. Its shape (hence the name Torcolo) is one of rolled dough.
From Perugia to Spoleto, (the city of flowers). From a religious celebration to a pagan one, Crescionda is typically prepared for Carnival. This Torta has multiple official recipes that date back to the middle ages.
As with much of the food in Umbria, the dish has at least 3 recipes: A three-layered one (amaretti and flour, egg-based cream, chocolate), a lighter recipe containing apples, and the Poretta, lemon-based recipe. Regardless of the version, there are a few common ingredients: Anise liquor, rum, lemon zest, vanilla, and cinnamon. A real delicacy, worthy of Carnival’s extravaganza!
The brustengo comes from the town of Narni and is one of most traditional sweets of Umbra. This cake is made with fine maize meal and enriched with thinly sliced apple, dried fruit and pine nuts. This simple recipe was to provide a sweet treat for poor families during cold seasons when fresh fruit was scarce. Over time, this cake has become increasingly popular and well known for its simplicity and the fact it is gluten free.
The Rocciata is a typical dessert from Assisi – The city of Saint Francis – and might remind you of the Austrian-Slovenian Strudel, due to its rolled shape. The shape of this typical Umbrian dessert carries a secret in its name: The word roccia in the local dialect means “rolled”.
The Rocciata’s dough is very thin, with a crunchy texture, stuffed with a filling made from a mixture of walnut, apples, and dried fruit. To top it off, the dessert has a characteristic red hue thanks to the light glazing of Alchermes (an Italian liquor used mainly in dessert and made of alcohol, sugar, water, cloves cinnamon, cardamom, raspberry, rosewater, and red colorant). Enjoy!
Although you can find most of these yummy dishes at restaurants throughout Umbria, below are some fun and fab foodie adventures you may wish to explore in and around beautiful, historic Città Della Pieve.
Learn more about traditional Umbrian cuisine in a hands-on half-day cooking class in Città Della Pieve.
Hotel Vannucci – Chef Vito Quarto will make you the stars of an unforgettable culinary experience. His cooking courses are open to all and aimed both at those who wish to broaden their knowledge of local culinary traditions and those who want to have fun with their hands making fresh pasta.
Cook by Me – Chef Anna provides a real Umbrian home cooking experience, where you’ll get to spend the day in her lovely home overlooking the valley whilst creating authentic dishes.
Poggiovalle Tenuta – Join their award winning Chef and discover all the secrets of many classic Umbrian dishes. You’ll spend the afternoon learning, preparing and making some of these classics. Then afterwards you’ll get to sit down and enjoy the fruits of your labour with a delicious glass of Umbrian wine in the beautiful grounds of Poggiovalle. Reservations for this experience need to made at least 15 days in advance and subject to availability.
Taste of Perugia Local Food Tour – Eat your way around Perugia’s historical center in a 4-hour food tour. Taste more than 10 + regional foods from locally run restaurants, quaint cafes and artisanal shops dotted around Perugia. Learn about the city through the eyes of a local and end the day in one of Italy’s top gelaterias. Check Availability
Agribusiness Alessandro Mazzuoli – The agrifarm is about 50 hectares located entirely in the Municipality of Città della Pieve. In addition to vineyards, olive groves and grains, the most viable farm land is kept for the production of the purest saffron. All farmland is cultivated following the techniques of organic farming, and since 2016 the company is certified under the EU ‘Biological’ label.
Here you can take Guided Tours throughout the year also with the possibility in the summer (July-August), of participating in the collection and transplantation of saffron bulbs. And in the autumn period (October- November) in the collection of flowers, pinching and drying of the spice. Also they offer Cooking workshops about the magic of saffron and how to make wonderful local dishes. Also in the heart of Città della Pieve I highly recommend a visit to the La casa dello zafferano interactive museum. Here you can learn about the history of saffron cultivation in the area and purchase the spice raw, or in artigiano beers, liquors and dried pastas.
Truffle Hunts – from Seven Cafè The two brothers from this popular restaurant will guide you through the wonderful woods of Umbria in search of truffles with their trusty dog ARGO. Truffle hunting has been a tradition in Umbria for centuries and requires only one rule: Respect for nature, the woods are a “sacred” place. During the truffle hunt, the boys will delight you with tales of the magic, the myth and the uses of this highly sought after and beloved fungus. Afterwards you can enjoy a glass of Umbrian vino and a delicious bowl of Tagliolini Tartufo Nero.
The word “Agriturismo” is formed from the Italian words for agriculture and tourism. And the green hills of Umbria are peppered with beautifully restore villas and farmhouses converted from ‘rustoico’s (ruins) Many of these having been abandoned in the 1950s and 1960s when small-scale farming became difficult and people moved to cities for work.
With an increase in tourism in the 1970s, the Italian government made “agriturismo” an official designation, and provided incentives for Italians to return to the countryside, to farming, and to restore the abandoned properties. The designation also enabled owners to supplement their income by hosting tourists. A visit to these is a wonderful way to support local farmers and experience delicious, homemade authentic cuisine. Below are a few of my favourites around Città Della Pieve.
Agriturismo Il Felcino – In the rolling hills straddling Umbria and Tuscany, you can walk in the woods, taste genuine cuisine, inspired by the Umbrian traditions, taste the famous steaks of Chianina in their restaurant, relax in the pool or have fun in the equestrian center where you can take riding lessons, or go horseback trekking.
Poggiovalle Tenuta – Here you can taste dishes made with ingredients produced on their own estate, such as Chianina beef, cheese from the dairy served with honey of their bees, olive oil and vegetables from the orchard. The menu is inspired by authentic Umbrian-Tuscan flavours. The dining room with its country chic porch and outside patio garden overlooking the hills, makes this the perfect spot to really immerse yourself in the Umbrian la dolce vita. The restaurant is open on Thursday and Friday for dinner, on Saturday for lunch and dinner, on Sunday for lunch. Reservation required. They also have a myriad of other fun activities to partake in on the property everything from horseback riding to truffle hunting.
Crocus Lab – Chef Davide is focussed on the genuineness of the raw food products, the search for harmony between tradition and modernity, simplicity and environmental impact; precisely for these reasons he decided to detach himself from modern catering world and return to a more “ancient” and authentic approach to dining. The Lab is open Wednesday through Sunday evenings and offers a fixed menu that changes weekly according to the availability of seasonal produce. Although it’s a set menu you may advise in advance of any food allergies or dietary requirements and he is always happy to accommodate you needs.
Quinto Sapore Farm and Shop – The farm practices eco-sustainability farming, promotes biodiversity, fosters positive workmanship and welfare, and has an incredible collection of seeds from long-forgotten fruits and vegetables. In spring and summer they offer guided tours where you’ll get to explore the farm and afterwards enjoy lunch prepared with their delicious produce in the open countryside, with beautiful views of the City of the Pieve and Lake Trasimeno. Or year-round you can visit their farm shop in Città della Pieve’s Centro Storico and pick up some farm fresh goodies or their yummy pre-made passata, preserves or soups.
I hope that this small culinary journey through the specialties of Umbrian Food has inspired you to visit us here in the green heart of Italy or, simply to try one of these recipes at home for a taste of authentic Italian cuisine.
The restaurants and vineyards alone are worth a visit for those who want a more local Italian experience, not forgetting this regions breathtaking, unspoilt landscapes, architectural beauty, music, festivals art and artists including Città della Pieve’s very own IL Perugino.
And for those without time to meander or who’d perhaps like a more curated experience book a stay at our picturesque Grove Cottage and with our compliments receive a personalised itinerary that ensures your days are filled with beauty and every delicious food or thirst-quenching opportunity the region has to offer.
A curious adventurer living la dolce vita creating insightful narratives with his skills as a Freelance Writer, Content Creator and printmaker taking you on adventures through the wonderful landscape of fine food, wine, art and all things Italian.
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Thank you you for taking me on a gastronomic journey through your beautiful part of the world. You have inspired me to seek out the best ingredients I can find and start with the first recipe How exciting! ❤️
You’re so welcome, it makes me so happy to hear people are inspired by the blog. I’m excited to hear all about your culinary adventure, happy cooking.
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