ITALIAN THERMAL SPA CLUB: A MAP TO TAKING THE WATERS IN UMBRIA AND TUSCANY.

“For thousands of years, people have recognized the incredible advantages of immersing themselves in the soothing waters. Historical records reveal that our ancestors valued the therapeutic properties of water, using it for purification, relaxation, and rejuvenation. This ancient wisdom reminds us of the profound connection between the healing power of water and our physical, mental, and spiritual well-being.”

Italy unveils the wonders of its thermal spas during the lovely cooler months of October through March, providing the ideal chance for you to explore and engage in true relaxation. Picture yourself surrounded by the mineral-rich terrain of the Mediterranean, where nature’s underground marvels come alive in the form of hot springs. For centuries, these therapeutic havens have been cherished by individuals seeking to enhance their well-being and experience a sense of bliss.

Delving into the history of Italy’s thermal spas, we find that their roots trace back to ancient times. The Etruscans, who inhabited Italy around 700 BC, were among the first to understand and harness the power of these natural spring waters. However, it was during the Roman Empire, commencing in 27 BC, that the popularity of these spas soared to new heights, influenced by the Romans’ penchant for luxurious bathing rituals.

In the grandeur of ancient Rome, the act of bathing became a daily norm for individuals from all walks of life. Bathhouses, often magnificent structures resembling marble temples, were constructed above these hot springs. They weren’t merely places for cleansing the body, but also served as vibrant social hubs, with communal pools and spaces for people to gather, converse, and enjoy each other’s company.

The Romans firmly believed in the harmony of a balanced lifestyle for optimal well-being. To them, daily bathing, nourishing meals, regular exercise, and rejuvenating massages were essential elements. It is fascinating to note that even in modern-day Italy, these age-old principles of health and happiness persist. Italians prioritize freshly cooked meals, place great emphasis on cleanliness, and understand the importance of staying active not just for physical well-being, but also as a way to embody the concept of “la bella figura” — a beautiful way of life that goes beyond appearances, encompassing behavior and the overall approach to life itself.

If embracing the concept and essence of ‘la bella figura’ resonates with you on a deeper level, then it might be time to step away from its art and archaeology and immerse yourself in one of Italy’s breathtaking natural wonders. Experience the serene beauty of these natural wonders, nestled in enchanting landscapes that were once hotbeds of volcanic activity. For a more in-depth exploration of Italian quirks and traditions, you can delve into my article, ITALIAN WAYS.

In the charming region we call home, encompassing southern Tuscany, western Umbria, and northern Lazio, you’ll discover dotted throughout the countryside, ancient Roman baths, and modern-day spas where soothing thermal waters fill spacious pools, both indoors and outdoors. While modern spas may require entrance fees, there are also free and accessible options for everyone to enjoy.

Conveniently located just a short drive away from our quaint hometown of Citta della Pieve, you’ll find a variety of restaurants that offer the perfect setting to unwind and revitalize during the cooler months. Additionally, our region boasts a plethora of autumn and winter events, a charming Christmas market, vibrant New Year celebrations, and the possibility of a thrilling day of skiing on the nearby slopes of Mount Amiata. You’ll have plenty to partake in beyond the thermal waters, allowing you to fully embrace the enchanting winter ‘Dolce Vita’ experience.

To complement your soothing retreat, we offer various accommodation options, including our recently renovated Grove Cottage. This beautiful retreat features state-of-the-art amenities such as a cozy Scan wood burner, central heating, luxurious linens, a refreshing rain shower, a fully equipped chef’s kitchen, a picturesque landscaped garden, and a cozy fire pit. After a day of pampering and exploration, you can relax and unwind in this tranquil haven. For availability, please click here: GROVE COTTAGE UMBRIA. Alternatively, for more accommodation options, you can download our City App at: CDPCITYAPP.

21 BATHS AND POOLS OF UMBRIA AND TUSCANY

Whether you seek the serene embrace of nature or crave the lavishness of opulence, there is an array of options to cater to your individual preferences. Let me guide you through a selection of spa types, each promising to create a moment of pure bliss and rejuvenation. From the tranquil havens nestled amidst lush landscapes, allowing you to reconnect with the earth’s soothing embrace, to the extravagant resorts that pamper your senses with lavish amenities and exquisite treatments, the possibilities are endless. Embrace the power of relaxation and embark on a journey to restore harmony and well-being. Allow yourself to unwind, recharge, and relish in the sublime experience that awaits you.

TOP TIP: It is advisable not to bring your best towels or swimwear to the terme due to the high mineral content of the water. Flip-flops, waterproof shoes, a sun hat, and drinking water are recommended. It is important to be considerate of others and keep noise levels low. Nudity may be occasionally observed, as Italians are not prudish or overly body-conscious. Leaving valuables in the car is recommended, as there is no easy way to keep an eye on them.

1. Rapolano Terme: These natural hot springs are in the direction of Siena. There are two spa centres here – One at Antica Querciolaia within the village, where some pools are covered and others in the open air with panoramic views over the famous Crete Senesi. The other is nearby, Terme di San Giovanni With five pools next to an Etruscan-Roman archaeological site (Campo Muri) with some dating from the 3^rd century BCE.

2. Bagni di Petriolo: Between Siena and Grosseto. These thermal springs have been in use since the Roman times. Bagni di Petriolo’s hot waters (43ºC) run down the hill into the Farma River. The hot water is separated from the cooler river water which makes this terme perfect for a warm, sunny autumn day, as you can go from warm to cool water just like the Ancient Romans.

3. Bagni Vignoni: A town where the main town square was originally its thermal bath. 49 meters long and 29 meters wide, the Renaissance-era piazza is built directly over the original hot springs and is much as it would have been in Roman times. Unfortunately for health and safety reasons you can no longer enter the water in the square. Instead instead head to nearby Parco dei Mulini where you will find a free public thermal pool. For a luxury day spa experience in this area that won’t break the bank Albergo Posta Marucci is your best bet, you can enjoy the pools from as little as 17 euros for a half day.

4. Bagni San Filippo: is a small town in southern Tuscany between the Val d’Orcia and Monte Amiata, Known since ancient times for the warm thermal waters that have created a magical landscape of white limestone formations, waterfalls and small hot tubs where you can swim amidst the lush green forest. The particular geographic location and low population have ensured that the place retains a natural and in-the-wild feel. The particular characteristic of this terme, (Fosso Bianco), is the impressive white mountain that rises from behind the hot spring, know as the white whale or balena bianca in Italian. It seems as if it were formed of ice, but it is a calcified mountain made from the minerals of the terme. These minerals are what make the waters of San Filippo so good for you. There is also another free, hot spring in this area called L’Aqua Passante, made of various small pools that drain one into the other.

5. San Casciano dei Bagni: Fonteverde Resort offers “Day Spa” treatments including use of their therapeutic open-air pool which overlooks the beautiful Val d’Orcia. Until the end of November 2022 you can enjoy their Aperispa on Saturdays and Sundays, from 3.00 pm to 7.00 pm which includes pool entry, and an aperitivo with bruschetta, delicacies and drinks € 30.00. Also if you’re a resident of Umbria or Tuscany and present your resident card you will receive a discount on admission. Alternatively, on the edge of town you can soak for free in the unsupervised outdoor stone pools at the Bagno Grande – I vasconi , which date back to Roman times. Recently, whilst upgrading the pools they unearthed the original roman bathhouse which they intend to restore and open to the public in 2024.

6. Saturnia: Bubbling over ivory-white boulders, the sulphurous waters of Saturnia, which run from Mount Amiata and the surrounding hills of Maremma, collect in the deep calcareous rock pools below. Popularised by the Romans, legend has it that the Roman god of Saturn first created the springs to pacify mankind – But after a malaria outbreak, they were completely forgotten about until the 19th century. Today, thousands flock here to experience the teal-coloured curative waters and wallow in the sulphur-rich mud, renowned for lowering high blood pressure and treating various skin diseases. These thermal baths reach around 37C (100F), and are suited to every season. Although nearby Terme di Saturnia offers treatments, these wild springs are free. Top Tip: Contrary to what I’ve read in other posts here there are free facilities for visitors. Toilet, changing rooms, showers and a cute cafe serving excellent food and beverage right at the entrance to the pools. There is also a quirky pizza vending machine that we dared not try. Lastly, parking – not much in the way of free parking but there is a large paid car park about 500 meters from the springs, (2 euros per hour, 2022).

7. Chianciano Terme: lies between Chiusi and Montepulciano and has a large number of hotels which lay testament to the fact that this was once of Italy’s most popular thermal spa resorts. A variety of spring waters can be found in Chianciano Terme, Each having its own properties and temperatures. The largest spas are set in beautiful town parks and offer facials, massage, naturopathy, reflexology, and other restorative treatments. This includes our favourite the thermal pools of Theia Spa.

8. Fontecchio: In Città di Castello. Known since Roman times, the Terme di Fontecchio is one of the most renowned in the field of rehabilitation treatments and boasts the presence of of particular bicarbonate -alkaline- sulphurous mineral waters which help heal all pathologies originating from inflammatory or painful states. Rebuilt during the 19th century by the well-known architect Guglielmo Calderini, the Fontecchio thermal baths are located inside a building with a classic roman baths layout. They also offer top-level mud therapy and hydroponic treatments. 

9. Terme San Felice: Is better known as the Franciscan thermal baths. This spa still retains the structure of the ancient Roman baths and is known for the treatment of respiratory, dermatological and muscular problems. The Franciscan Baths combine the love for tradition and modern technologies thanks to 3 indoor thermal pools with temperatures from 34 ° to 37 ° C, complete with water jets, whirlpools , waterfalls and hydromassage, physiotherapy and mud treatments.

10. Terme di Santo Raggio – Assisi: Once called Santureggio, (from the Latin sanctus et regius fons), The thermal waters of Santo Reggio, already known in the 2nd century BC, rise a few kilometers from the center of Assisi. Terme di Santo Raggio is powered by more than 35 medium mineral springs at a temperature of 15 °, originating from Colle Moiano. The spas are specialised in hydroponic treatments but are also used for the treatment of diseases of the digestive system, the liver and biliary tract.

11. Villa Valentina: in Umbertide. One of the most exclusive spas in Umbria where attention to well-being is supported by the most modern technologies and equipment. Villa Valentina Country Resort & SPA offers three indoor and outdoor thermal pools at different temperatures, equipped with the most innovative hydromassage equipment.

12. Ancient Baths of Triponzo: In Cerreto di Spoleto. These baths are open again after a restoration project of more than 30 years. This unique thermal spa with sulphurous water rich of calcium that regardless of the season maintains a constant temperature of 30 degrees centigrade has considerable therapeutic qualities. The thermal baths are entirely immersed in ancient Umbrian forest: With 18 springs of emerald green the health qualities of these sulphurous thermal waters have been recognised for centuries.

13. Parrano Terme: is located in western Umbria, It is a small village with a wonderful panoramic view overlooking the Chiani valley and across to Città della Pieve. At the foot of the village there is the Thermal park “ Bagno del Diavolo” (Devil’s Bath) that, surrounded by greenery, is the ideal place to soak, relax and restore.

14. Terme San Gemini – Terni: Parco delle Fonti. Along the route of the Via Flaminia rise the Terme San Gemini. One of the most famous in Italy thanks to their high calcium content, and degree of assimilated minerals. There are two sources that feed the thermal baths: Sangemini and Fabia, which flow from Monte Torre Maggiore at a temperature of 13 ° and are ideal for soothing osteoarticular, urinary and gastrointestinal diseases.

15. Thermal baths of Acquasparta (Amerino) – Terni: Also known as “Terme di San Francesco“. It is said that these waters were blessed by St Francis during his long pilgrimages through the Umbrian territories. The ancient Terme di Acquasparta rise in a beautiful park that houses an ancient Franciscan spring, originally from the mountains Martani, curiously hidden between two rocks covered with olive trees. Specialising in hydropinic treatment, Amerino water is bicarbonate-alkaline-earthy and is particularly suitable as a drink to improve diuresis and treat gastrointestinal, urinary, hepatic and biliary diseases.

16. Thermal baths of San Faustino – Massa Martana: Extremely light and rich in carbon dioxide, the water of the Terme di San Faustino is known for naturally draining accumulations sedimented inside the kidneys and to relieve the urinary tract. The water is naturally sparkling, thirst-quenching, and has great health properties. In addition to the therapeutic treatments of lymphatic drainage, bio-radionic therapy and food intolerance tests, it is possible to visit the wellness center which houses a sauna, a whirlpool, a Turkish bath and massage rooms.

COLD NATURAL SPRINGS AND MINERAL WATER.

I’ve include these cold springs and watery anomalies for the brave of heart who find pleasure in dunking themselves in cold water, or simply for those who wish to visit a beautiful place on a sunny winters day. Not only are these springs wonderful to bathe in or admire, they are also an amazing source of mineral rich drinking water. Did you know Umbria has seventeen sources of mineral water? These include Scheggia – Pascelupo , Gualdo Tadino , Nocera Umbra , Foligno , Sellano , Cerreto di Spoleto and Gubbio, can you name the rest? Drop me a line if you can.

17. Narni Springs: The natural pools of Narni are truly are rare beauty. So much so they are said to have inspired Irish author C. S. Lewis to write his classic children’s fantasy series-The Chronicles of Narnia. These pools are formed by the river Nera and are an easy walk or bike ride from the ancient town of Stifone. Here you can bath in the clear crystal clear turquoise and emerald waters or simply sit on the edge of the water and take in all the beauty of this unique Umbrian paradise.

18. Bevagna: Looks like a compact and austere medieval village, but on closer inspection it reveals its ancient Umbrian-Roman origins in: Remains of temples, mosaics, theatre, walls, cisterns, columns and decorative fresco’s. The first historical records of Bevagna coincide with the Roman conquest of Umbria, When the Romans occupied the area and built the western Via Flaminia (220 BC) and the connecting roads. In Roman times, as recent findings also confirm, this was also a river port directly connected with Rome through the Tiber, into which the Clitunno-Topino system flows. Bevagna is also one of the major sources of mineral water in Umbria. The spring is over 15 meters deep, but has a surface of only 500 square meters. There is a legend, from the 17^th century that links this little lake to the disappearance of the ungrateful farmer Chiarò who, as a punishment for having worked in the fields on the Saint Anna festival day, was sunk, with his home to the bottom of the lake. And sometimes, when the time is just right locals say you can still see the roof of the house shimmering in its watery grave.

19. Sellano, Is one of the most beautiful villages in Umbria, And on the village outskirts you’ll find Lake Vigi. Fed by the Vigi river which springs from Monte Pizzuto (at 1267 above sea level). This lake is commonly known as “Lochness” (Not however because of mysterious sightings of monsters but for the sport fishing, Similar to that of it’s namesake in Scotland). The lake is an enchanting place where you find yourself surrounded by magical woods and mystical turquoise waters, that seem to flow from all directions towards the lake. There is also a lovely restaurant in the old mill house on the shore called LOCHNESS which has wonderful views of the lake and yummy local cuisine. Another must see is a cavern not far from the lakeshore where water drips from the walls and ceiling creating small pools below. The water in these pools are believed to have regenerative powers and some have even referenced this place as the original fountain of youth.

20. Clitunno Springs: Is a water garden/park renowned for having incredibly clear iridescent water with brilliant emerald hues populated with rich and unique vegetation: In addition to moss there are also phanerogams, mare’s tail, star fruit, curled pondweed, water starwort, water forget-me-nots and watercress. While along the grassy banks you’ll be surrounded by weeping willows and poplars. This park truly feels like it has been plucked from a fairytale. Another magical place not miss is the Tempietto del Clitunno : This is an early Christian building in the shape of a temple with four columns, surmounted by a tympanum, overlooking the spring from a small hill giving you a overview of this unique landscape. It’s no wonder that this small lake inspired many poets such as Propertius, Pliny, Virgil, Byron and Carducci.

21. Castel de ‘Fiori: This picturesque village is immersed in countryside and today has very few full-time residents. Though in the summer it’s populated by numerous Italian and foreign visitors who’ve had houses in their families for generations. In the central square there are the Baronial Palace of the village and the Church of Santa Maria Maddalena. In the surrounding area are the ruins of the Church of Sant ‘Antonio (13th century) and the Abbey of Acqua Alta (probably built before the year 1000). As well as archaeological finds such as the necropolis of Poggio della Croce and the “castelliere”. (The castellieri are fortified enclosures with stones placed in hilly areas so as to control vast areas and to dominate the communication routes dating from the Bronze Age to the early Iron Age). This area has many walking trails and along the way you may discover several waterfalls and the “borgoni” small natural pools. But be warned, the setting is magical but the water is freezing.

I hope this post has inspired you to indulge in a day, weekend or month exploring the magical, healing, thermal spring waters of Umbria and Tuscany.