As featured on Smart Move Italy.com – Bedtime Stories
Once upon a time in a city that never slept where the buildings scraped the sky lived a handsome and successful couple still searching for La dolce vita. They had spent 21 demanding, exuberant and exhausting years living what appeared to be the high-life whilst inhabiting this sometimes seemingly soulless city.
Then one fateful day the sea rose unexpectedly to kiss the land and brought them both down to earth with a bang. Hurricane Sandy struck and delivered a watery kiss to NYC in October 2012 that caused everyone to change-step and some to change lives.
For 8 days there was no power and no work IN 50% of this packed city of 11 million souls.
With no restaurants, no entertainment and no distractions people suddenly found time to daydream – Or panic. And in that forced isolation Raymond and Leonardo reviewed their lives and discovered they both had the same dream for the future – To return to their Mediterranean roots and seek out a more simple life and the true dolce vita.
When the power was restored and our couple went back to work they began seriously considering their future and what it would really take for them to change their lives.
Then in 2014 as the American people were gearing up for another toxic presidential election campaign, though this time with frightening rumors and rants that a bombastic reality TV star was likely to become president it was the final impetus they needed to truly start planning their escape.
They made a concerted effort to seek out their destination with regular trips down the ‘Goggle search’ rabbit hole seeking inspiration and information to help realize their next big global adventure. In time, after a great deal of lively discussion over breakfasts, lunches and delicious dinners they concluded it would be Bella Italia.
Now that was settled it was time to flesh out the details. Our couple had watched enough relocation shows like House Hunters Internationaland Escape to the Continentto know the importance of a wish list. So they sat down with pen and paper and pondered all they desired in their dream home. What was this new life going to look like, taste like, and smell like?
Words like farmhouse, traditional, rustic, renovated were tossed about along with outdoor space, views and perhaps in a city, town or field.
“We must have at least three bedrooms, “ one said
“Yes,“ the other concurred “and two bathrooms.”
“A Garden or terrace or perhaps some land? Raymond queried
“Maybe an olive grove?” Leonardo added
As they ironed out their list of wishes and agreed on a budget they unfurled a map of the ‘boot shaped’ country and began to plot their course of discovery, They scoured the land from north to south and east to west, and from the mountains to the sea.
“Definitely close to amenities, possibly near the French border, Imagine going to France for lunch!” exclaimed Raymond.
For the next few months the couple explored their options flagging potential towns and homes. Once their plan was sufficiently thought out, Raymond booked a flight, packed their suitcase of dreams, filled his pockets with hope and flew across the pond.
In July 2015 Raymond landed in Nice, jumped into a rental car and set off across the border into Italy.
He followed the coastline of the Ligurian sea from Imperia into Genoa then onto La Spezia and the Cinque terra then finishing upin Tuscan coastal town of Livorno, Although the coastline was stunning it was mountainous and rocky – very dramatic and romantic but he felt not a practical place to physically live.
After many days and hours in and out of cars, houses, towns and villages Raymond found himself suffering from the goldilocks syndrome, everything seemed too big, too small, no view, too hilly, too expensive or simply too un-finished.
Add to this the intoxicating cocktail of Italy’s natural beauty, delicious food and aperol spritzes and his head was spinning, making almost any sensible decision impossible.
Thankfully their first foray into bella Italia wasn’t a complete bust because they did discover what they didn’t want and it turns out that that was just as important as knowing what they did want.
Raymond returned to NYC and they jumped back down the preverbal ‘Google search’ rabbit hole.
In February 2016 he returned to Italy this time settling in the famed Tuscan town of Cortona where he found himself unexpectedly saddled with a slightly unhinged Russian real estate agent who was extremely glamorous and charming but once behind the wheel of her tiny smart car turned into a maniac and drove as if she were in a formula 1. Ferrari.
They travelled at top speed through the Val D’Orcia ‘literally’ hitting many of the famous medieval towns like Lucca, San Gimignano, Pienza, Radicofani and Cetona where his guide miraculously squeezed her car into moped sized spaces and whisked him in and out of properties like a whirling dervish in 3 inch heels.
And they also crossed the mountains into La Marche and scoured the coastline of the Adriatic Sea.
Over those six days she managed to show him over 40 properties that ranged from piles bricks in a field at the bottom of a ravine to grand estates that were so far out of their budget it was laughable – Although at this point the laughter was more crazed than jovial.
With only one day left and his head still spinning he decided to escape her devilish clutches and politely declined her invitation to view another 10 ‘Zimply divine’ houses on his final day.
Instead, after a lazy breakfast he gathered his wits about him and decided to just get in the car and see where he ended up.
He drove south from Cortona past Lago Trasimeno along beautiful winding country roads into Umbria. A pale sun shone bright in a cloudless blue sky and on that picture perfect winters morning the stars aligned and the gods smiled down upon him.
“You’ll never believe it but I’ve found the perfect town for us!” he announced surprising Leonardo with a call in what was the middle of the night in NYC, “ It’s called Citta della Pieve.” He continued as he sat in the piazza café sipping a perfect cappuccino.
CITTA DELLA PIEVE
Citta della Pieve was a medieval hamlet that sat proudly on a hill where Umbria skirts the border of Tuscany. It was not your typical sleepy medieval hilltop town or over-crowded tourist trap.
Citta della Pieve had a tangible life force, energy, and a pulse that transcended just being pretty to look at or a magnet for tourists.
It was a real living breathing Italian town with a welcoming warmth that seemed to emanate from its gorgeous red brick buildings, the narrow winding streets were abuzz with locals of all ages and the café’s hummed with groups in conversation.
It had been less than a year since they’d had the idea to move to Italy, And I know what you’re thinking, They must be crazy having based a huge life changing decision on a feeling but “when you know you know,” Sometimes you just have to have blind faith and trust your instincts.
As Raymond sat basking in the winter sunshine cradling his cappuccino and watching the waiter happily chatting to guests and passers by he thought – Well, this is it, this is what you were looking for, Now what are you going to do about it.
The day Raymond returned to NYC they began searching homes for sale in Citta della Pieve, And before they could even enter their full search criteria the very first home to pop up on screen was their soon-to-be Farmhouse on the hill.
Their hearts skipped a beat; this house was perfect, the size, the location the garden and budget.
Was it too good to be true?
They immediately emailed the agent and waited with baited breath for a response. They waited and waited, first a few days then a week, No answer so they emailed again all the while they continued their search but they kept coming back to the house on the hill.
Finally they received an answer-as it often happens International agencies list properties on behalf of smaller agents by posting the property onto their own sites so offering greater exposure to the vendor, Which in turn means a longer time is needed for a response.
Raymond wrote the local agent and explained that as he had only just returned from an intense property hunt in Italy, And before he could consider coming back for another round they needed a video of the entire house inside and out.
A few days later they got the video……………
The video was enchanting – Although the house had been unlived in for many years and needed updating the structure was strong, the rooms had great potential and the views were fantastic. Excited they called the agent and said that Raymond would only be coming to Italy see this one house and they needed reassurance that it actually was for sale – From the owner as often properties for sale languish online for years – and sometimes the listings are abandoned or out-of date.
Assurances were promptly given and Raymond booked a flight, Arrived on a Saturday morning in late February, toured the house and made an offer – By Monday the owner accepted and 10 days later they were the delighted owners of the farmhouse on the hill.
Now all they had to do was close and sell a business, Pack up an apartment and stoage unit and organize shipping for all their worldly goods to cross an ocean, Oh – and of course say their goodbyes to their wonderful friends and finally board a one-way flight to Italy.
They drove along the white gravel road, their hearts a flutter with excitement as their 200 year old new home came into view, A towering structure all shuttered like a giant about to be woken after years of deep slumber.
As they approached they realized that Mother nature had woven her springtime magic and what had been a well tended front garden when Raymond was last there in February was now a thick jungle of tree shoots and weeds almost 6ft high.
They fought their way through the undergrowth, retrieved the door key from under a pot and clapping their hands threw open the door shouting to hopefully scare away any unwelcome guests that may have lurked within.
They ran from room to room, up the three floors, throwing the shutters open and allowing the sunlight and wind fill the empty house. As they made their way back downstairs they noticed the old terracotta floors were more undulating than flat, there was water damage, the walls were flaking and pealing, the paint colors were dated and the fitted kitchen was from another era.
By the time they returned to the overgrown garden their excitement had turned to determination, this was the beginning of their new dream life and they now had to roll up their sleeves and seriously get down to the business of starting over.
The building restoration began indoors: The undulating stone floors were restored with Umbrian pink terracotta tiles, Walls were re-plastered and the old kitchen cabinetry removed and replaced with gorgeous oak units and Carrera marble counter tops.
Walls were re-painted and light fittings replaced. A wonderful local woodworker was employed to work on designing and creating fitted storage throughout the house.
All this went on whilst they waited for the ‘Permesso’ (permission) to restore the outside of the house by repairing and replacing the mortar – That turned out to be a long labor-intensive job.
For three weeks at dawn each day it seemed like a thousand woodpeckers descended upon the house with a relentless and deafening knock, knock knocking.
In reality it was the workmen with little trowels and hammers removing and replacing the concrete that held together the ancient stonewalls.
Within six months most of the work was completed and even though they were exhausted they were quiet very happy and chuffed with what they had managed to achieve with their limited understanding of the Italian language. They believed it was the combination of gesticulating, smiles a willingness to show that you are working hard and the wonders of modern technology (Google translate) that got them through it.
Actually, their tradesmen were very forgiving; in fact everyone in their town was forgiving of their almost nonexistent Italian and local knowledge. We later learnt that they were delighted to see that we were thoroughly invested in the community and having a go at speaking the language and in spite of all the obstacles and hurdles we had to overcome – We kept smiling.
All the while the bureaucratic dragon loomed on the horizon, Guarding the jewel that was Italian Residency. Our couple had heard of the struggles that many expats had encountered with this bureaucratic multi-faceted beast.
They adopted the approach that it was best to tackle things as the Italians do, Slowly, without worry or in anger, and this seemed to work in their favor. Everything from ordering a meal to dealing with the Caribinieri at the roadside – For best results proceed first with a disarming smile. That was their philosophy and that is mainly how they managed to move the most seemingly complex of situations forward and get the help they needed.
As they begin to mine for this jewel of residency they soon discovered not every commune (town hall) or Questura they had to deal with was created equal. Citta della Pieve’s commune was most helpful and accommodating and Raymond, as a British Subject got his residency seamlessly as the UK was still a part of the European union.
Unfortunately Leonardo’s battle with this dragon was not as painless as he is Australian, It would take a 3 year journey of misinformation, trips to consulates, a truck load of translated documents and many more trips to Perugia Questura until finally they were given the correct information they needed. And in the end, and as is often the case it turned out to be simple: If they got married in Italy Leonardo would get his approval.
So they were quickly married in the commune – during a power outage one brisk December morning in 2018, with two surprised locals as witnesses. And ‘Presto’ a few months later Leonardo had his Permesso and the bureaucratic dragon was at last put to rest.
Once they had slayed the dragon and restored the giant now lovingly referred to as “la Torre”, they were surprised to find that moving to a new country was the easy part. Living in one was a minefield of unexpected ‘translation’ challenges and cultural faux pas. Which made for some embarrassing moments and wonderful surprises because as well as trying to navigate a new social and cultural landscape, there’s the added pressure of being the ‘Straniero’ (foreigner) in town.
Everyone wanted to know their life story and what they planned on doing next.
Was it worth it? Was it the right decision? Was it what they expected?
The simple answer is Yes, Yes, Yes.
But there is one very important ingredient in this story that Raymond believed was the true key to their success. Charity, He has always lived by principle that whatever you have; be it time, experience or resources however great or small must to some extent be shared with others.
So almost from day one he had been looking for project they could physically donate to and get involved in that would enable them to immerse themselves into the local Italian community and draw charitable and like-minded people into their orbit, And as fate would have it within weeks of arrival they found the perfect fit.
The Ceramic Lab Terrarte in the heart of the Centro Storico provided support and education for special-needs children and adults and was run solely by volunteers. Leonardo’s love of art and Raymond’s love of community collided in what is quite a magical place.
It seemed that in no time the restoration works were behind them and their beautiful home was filled with music and laughter, Visitors arrived from the World over to share in their good fortune and enjoy their dolce vita.
To celebrate their first anniversary they held a large party for those they’d met and helped establish them in their new home. At dusk on a warm summers evening 100+ guests walked the gravel driveway to La Torre in colorful linens, sing-song Italian words drifted across the fields and arms were laden with baskets filled with local produce – Music played and delicious food and wine’s were served by handsome waiters – Heaven.
THE GARDEN PARTY
During that first year and thanks mainly to the guidance of the many friends they’d made they discovered a rich tapestry of food festivals, hidden art treasures, theatre, vineyards, music festivals and spa towns that were, unbeknown to them when they purchased the house right on their own front doorstep.
Their fearless nature had led them around the world in search of la dolce vita and they unexpectedly found it in Umbria-the green heart of Italy, Which remains a magical, beautiful and resilient place filled with hope, kindness and compassion even in these most difficult and challenging times.
These days you will find Leonardo at his antique writing desk in the study on the top floor of their house, looking out on the gorgeous rolling landscape whilst composing prose and Raymond downstairs tending to their lovely garden or busy with art projects. And as the world unlocks they will return to enjoying all the activities on offer in their beautiful town or setout to further explore ‘Bella Italia’ and the world beyond.
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