7-DAY SOUTH-EAST SICILIAN ADVENTURE

Exploring Catania, Mount Etna, Taormina, and Syracuse without a car.

In this post, I’m thrilled to share the details of our very first holiday powered entirely by public transport. We flew into Catania, located in southeast Sicily, but you could also easily reach this vibrant city by ferry or train from mainland Italy. No matter how you arrive, the transfer into the city center should take no more than fifteen minutes by bus, train, or taxi. From the outset, let me assure you that Sicily’s bus and train services are modern and offer great value. For those of you who typically opt for car hire, I understand your concerns. after a week free from parking hassles and heated encounters with other motorists, we found ourselves thoroughly enjoying the more eco-friendly travel choices.

Our other Sicilian adventure took us to the enchanting seaside town of Cefalù. If you’re curious to learn more about this charming place, head to my post, THE LAST OF THE SUMMER WARMTH.

Top tip: The Catanese love to party, so perhaps when choosing accommodation, opt for a place in the backstreets near Castello Ursino. Here you can enjoy some peace and quiet while still being only a short stroll from the city’s main attractions, lively piazzas, and bustling nightlife.

Day 1: Catania

Catania is the second-largest city in Sicily, famously known as the “Black City” because many of its buildings were rebuilt using practically indestructible black lava stone after Mount Etna’s epic eruption in the 16th century, which not only covered much of the city with lava but also reshaped the coastal landscape. Abutting the sea, Catania’s city centre boasts a captivating mix of Baroque and lava-stone architecture. With wide boulevards, plentiful parkland, a lively music scene, and a multi-generational population of half a million souls all working and living in the shadow of the still-active Mount Etna. The threat, one deduced, must be the reason they live life to the fullest and are full of passion.

Our first day began in the Piazza Duomo, dominated by the city’s baroque cathedral dedicated to Saint Agatha, in front of which sits the Liotru fountain. This remarkable fountain, with its lava stone elephant and obelisk, symbolizes the rebirth of the city after the destructive 1693 earthquake. The statue was created between 1735 and 1737 by an architect from Palermo, Giovanni Battista Vaccarini. The “U’ Liotru” (the dwarf elephant in Catania dialect) is said to have lived in Sicily in the Upper Paleolithic Times, and according to legend, it protected the first population of Catania from all fierce and dangerous beasts. ‘Hard to believe?’ But we soon discovered, thanks to our excellent local guides, that myths and fables abound in Catania, as all historic and official records from the city were lost in the lava flow of 1693.

Turning back towards the cathedral, our curiosity was further piqued by the story of Sant’Agata alla Bada, who, legend has it, lost her breasts to the sword because she refused (at 13 years old) to marry a rich merchant. The grotesque mutilation from which she apparently survived was thereafter banished to a nunnery. However, in a delicious twist to her gruesome tale, you can now indulge in Catania’s homage to Sant Agata: Cassatella di sant’Agata (Sicilian: minnuzzi ‘i sant’Àjita, lit. ‘Saint Agatha’s breasts’). A traditional Sicilian pastry made in the shape of a small breast filled with ricotta and topped by a glacé cherry nipple. And that fable led us to the church of Sant’Agata alla Badia, where, after climbing one hundred steps, we were rewarded with an awe-inspiring view of the city from the church’s panoramic terrace.

At lunchtime, our intuitive tummies led us to a delightful spot called Buatta, a colorful, modern eatery conveniently located close to Duomo Square. Their menu features an interesting mix of Spanish-inspired sandwiches, burgers, and traditional local cuisine. I highly recommend the Taco di Polpo, the Arancinetti di Baccalà, the avocado salad with granny smith apples and hazelnuts, and the pulled pork burger. After lunch, we visited Palazzo Biscari, a grand palace still home to the descendants of Prince Biscari. The prince’s impressive collections and the palace’s grandeur are well worth a visit. We then moved on to Via Vittorio Emanuele, where we marveled at Catania’s Roman ruins, including the ancient Roman theatre and odeon. The city’s rich history and the intricate architecture of these sites are more than sufficient to allow one to imagine life as it must have been in Catania centuries ago.

As we strolled back down Via Etnea towards our apartment, we found ourselves captivated by the abundance of charming artisan markets tucked away in side streets, lively piazzas filled with food vendors, and inviting cafes. And after dark, walking along the Via Etnea from Piazza del Duomo to Gioeni Park, we felt a sense of warmth and community among the street performers and locals enjoying their nightly passeggiata. It was a place where you could easily lose track of time, simply soaking in the vibrant atmosphere and watching the world go by.

On our first evening, we made our way to the fish market area. By day, it bustled with vendors selling their fresh catches, but by night, it transformed into a lively hub of cafes and restaurants, with tables joyfully filled by both visitors and locals, all savoring delicious food, music, and entertainment. We chose to dine at Scirocco Sicilian Fish Lab, a cherished local spot known for its inviting street-food atmosphere and incredible fresh seafood. The vibrant energy of this bustling market was truly contagious, drawing us back time and again during our week-long visit. After our meal, we couldn’t resist stopping by the famed pasticceria, Caffè del Duomo. We left with a delightful box of Sicilian cookies and, of course, a mouth-watering Saint Agatha’s breast.

Day 2: Bike and Street Food Tour; Night at the Theater.

We started our day at Bar Mazzini, which became our favorite go-to spot for delicious fresh-baked cornetto, great coffee, and the classic Sicilian breakfast of brioche filled with granita. After this, we took an amazing bike and street food tour with Sicily Bike Tourist Service. We began the tour by visiting the gardens of Parco Maestranze. (Another wonderful stop for nature lovers and garden enthusiasts is Orto Botanico di Catania ‘the botanical gardens of Catania‘). Our next stop was the lively fish market, where vendors hawk their wares in ‘alto-voce’ whilst filleting and chopping fish at incredible speeds. Next to the market, we indulged in seltz limone e sale, a unique local drink made with lemons, seltzer water, and salt, from a nearby kiosk, and another delicious Cassatella di Sant’Agata.

Our tour then took us to, of all things, an underground river that carved its way through the lava flow, and right behind the main Duomo Square had been transformed into a modern auditorium. After which, we continued to the Swabian Castle, soaking in the rich history and architecture of the medieval fortress. Finally, we visited the prince’s palace, an opulent ex-royal residence.

One of the most unexpected highlights of the tour was the breathtaking Teatro Massimo Bellini, the project being entrusted in 1870 to the Italian architect Andrea Scala with Carlo Sada’s help. This huge opera house exudes elegance and charm and is the centerpiece of an impressive piazza. And, in spite of our guide’s doubtful looks when we inquired about the availability of tickets (which they said sold out months in advance), we were thrilled to secure the last 2 for that evening’s performance. The Symphony concert conducted by Salvatore Percacciolo turned out to be a truly memorable experience, leaving us in awe of the stunning interior, talented musicians, and incredible acoustics.

Street Food Highlights

Street-food in Catania truly embodies the essence of the city, offering delicious, great-value dishes that highlight the local, fresh produce. From cozy delis to charming bakeries, friendly butchers, convenient food trucks and even random serving-hatches in walls, every street-corner seems to offer some reason to pause, which fosters a strong sense of community and unites residents and visitors alike.

Top tip: Don’t miss out on trying the cartocciate, cipolline, and pizza secca croccante, in addition to the classic arancini (as featured below).

And whilst there are also lots of vegan and vegetarian food options, the meat shops, known as carnezzerie, hold a special place in the hearts of locals, particularly along Via Plebiscito. These rustic trattorias cater to meat lovers, upholding the tradition of “Arrusti e Mangia” (“roast and eat”). Here you can indulge in a variety of expertly grilled steaks, pork ribs, and horse meatballs (horse is a local delicacy). Also save room for specialties like cipollata, a delectable spring onion wrapped in bacon. Fish enthusiasts will also delight in options like sandwiches with raw tuna and seafood arancini.

For those with a sweet tooth, the “zeppole di riso,” or sfinci, are a must-try treat. These fried donuts, flavored with orange and drizzled with honey, are believed to have been created by nuns, who obviously had a very sweet tooth.

Last but not least, there are quaint chioscos—or “ciospo,” as they are lovingly called in the Catanese dialect. These kiosks are scattered throughout the city and provide a great selection of sweet and salty snacks, artisanal gelato, and beverages. They are cherished places where people gather to relax and unwind. During the intense summer heat, locals stop by at different times of the day and night to converse, connect, take a break from work, socialize, and cool off. “Ci vediamo al chiosco!”

Day 3: 4X4 Trek and Sunset Picnic on Mount Etna

If you’ve ever dreamed of exploring an active volcano, look no further than Mount Etna, Europe’s highest and most active volcano, just a short ride from Catania. To experience Etna, you can hike, bike, take a 4×4 tour, ride a cable car, or combine your visit with a wine-tasting tour. But whichever way you choose, you’ll get up close to the vapor plumes from the craters and feel the volcano’s living presence beneath your feet. Rest assured, it’s completely safe! (Disclaimer: Almost completely safe.) Just make sure to wear sturdy shoes, bring plenty of water, a warm jacket, and lots of enthusiasm.

We chose to take a 4×4 tour, followed by a sunset picnic. The locals affectionately refer to the volcano as Lady Mount Etna, perhaps because she is forever spewing hot-stuff? The volcano covers 1,200 square km and features multiple craters and more than 190 lava-tubes, some of which emit smoke and occasional eruptions. The volcano and surrounding lands are protected and offer a diverse range of landscapes, from volcanic areas to lush forests, and mineral-rich vineyards.

Our journey began at Rifugio Sapienza on the southern slope, just a short drive from Catania. Our guide stopped at various points to showcase the craters and lava flows while narrating the mountain’s history. Rifugio Sapienza, situated near a cable car and parking area, serves as a convenient starting point. A 30-minute hike from the parking lot leads to the inactive Crateri Silvestri, formed during a significant eruption in 1892. These craters provide easy access and offer a unique landscape reminiscent of Mars. For a longer trek, visitors can venture towards Schiena dell’Asino (approximately 2 hours, 5 km), which leads to the edge of Valle del Bove, where lava flows collect. The vibrant wildflowers in June add to the beauty of the experience.

You can take the Etna Cable Car from Rifugio Sapienza up to Montagnola at 2,500 meters above sea level. From there, you will get a sense of the immense grandeur of the volcano. Continue your ascent by walking or taking a 4×4 vehicle to reach Torre del Filosofo at 2,900 meters above sea level. As you climb, the landscape becomes more mysterious, with the volcanic sand glittering in the sunlight.

But if you wish to explore the active craters and observe the magic of Etna up close, you’ll need to hire a professional guide from the office next to Torre del Filosofo. You can also book in advance with GO-Mount Etna, who offer many options for exploring this incredible volcano.

We concluded our tour on the opposite side of the volcano, facing the sunset with a picnic and a delicious glass of Sicilian wine.

After heading back to Catania we decided to grab a quick bite at Artù Burger Bar. The burgers made with fresh local ingredients are delicious, with options for both meat, fish and vegetarians. For the adventurous, there’s even a horse meat burger. And for those night-owls, you can then take a stroll along Via Vittorio Emanuele will lead you to bars with live music or DJs playing late into the night.

Day 4: Day trip to Taormina

Once a busy Greek city that in the 3rd century BC rivaled Athens, Taormina, perched high on a promontory, became a destination loved by nobles and dignitaries alike. In the 17th and 18th centuries, it became very fashionable for wealthy young men and later women on The Grand Tour, and then in the 20th century, movie stars. And now, it’s a hotspot not to be missed by those who’ve watched the TV series The White Lotus and wish to experience the glamorous Dolce Vita. So be prepared, as the town is regularly packed with tourists. But the location, stunning palaces, medieval churches, and well-maintained Greek amphitheater still make it well worth a short visit.

To reach Taormina, we opted for the bus, which conveniently dropped us off right in the heart of the old town. Our first stop was Ristorante Pirandello 2.0, where we enjoyed a fabulous lunch of authentic Sicilian cuisine while dining on colorful ceramic tables made by the famous Sicilian ceramic artist De Simone while also enjoying the stunning views of the shoreline. After lunch, we slowly zig-zagged between tourists along the pedestrianized Corso Umberto, lined with charming churches, shops, and palaces like Palazzo Corvaja. Then headed to the public garden for a panoramic view of Mount Etna, en route pausing at Piazza IX Aprile for a breathtaking view of the Ionian Sea. Also visit the city’s Duomo and the church of Santa Caterina, built on an ancient Greek temple. To take in all the sights, this route should take about 2 hours, so perhaps treat yourself to an indulgent cannolo from D’Amore pastry shop near Santa Caterina Church before finally making your way up Via Teatro to the Greek theatre, dating back to the 3rd century BC.

Top tip: Check the theatre performance schedule, as during the summer they host concerts and plays in front of the stunning backdrop of Mount Etna and the coastline, just as they would have centuries ago.

After exploring the town, perhaps ride the cable car to picturesque Isola Bella, a small island with a thin strip of sand connecting it to the coast. Then either relax on the beach or take a boat to explore the nearby caves. Boat tours depart frequently from the beach in front of Isola Bella.

But for those looking for a more energetic adventure, why not forget the beach and hike the 45 minutes to the village of Castelmola, situated above Taormina? Castelmola offers breathtaking sea views, the remains of a Norman castle, and picturesque streets to wander. The hike takes you along the Sentiero dei Saraceni, a picturesque trail that connects the two towns. The hike begins at Piazza Goethe, which is 45 minutes from Taormina’s center. Of course, you can also travel to Castelmola by car or bus in about fifteen minutes.

After a long day and navigating a lot of pedestrian traffic, we decided to take the train back to Catania, which takes about 30 minutes. However, while in the train station at Taormina, I highly recommend taking a moment to admire the station’s architecture and intricate designs. The interior is beautifully furnished with dark wood furniture in the Sicilian style of the late 1800s. The walls and ceilings of the waiting rooms are adorned with frescoes and relief decorations by the Palermitan artist Salvatore Gregorietti, who also created the stained glass and iron furnishings. And the setting, practically right on the beach, somehow conjures images of the old, black-and-white Hollywood movies.

Day 5: Overnight in Syracuse & Ortigia

At the height of its splendor, the Latin writer Cicero called Siracusa the greatest Greek city and the most beautiful of all. With a population of 300,000 in the third century BC, it even rivaled Athens! Evidence of its past prestige can be witnessed by walking through the remains of the Greek buildings. While Ortigia, an island connected to Syracuse by a road and footbridge (and technically part of the city), is surprisingly different—all Baroque instead of Greek.

We journeyed from Catania to Syracuse by train, which takes less than an hour and offers stunning views of the coastline. In Syracuse, we picked up rental bikes from Green Rent Siracusa and cycled over the bridge to Ortigia. It is also possible to walk (30 minutes) or take a cab or the minibus 2 to Ortigia from right outside the train station.

En route to our hotel, we had a delicious lunch at Scuola Alimentare, a lovely, local restaurant known for its tasty Sicilian dishes, fresh pasta, fresh seafood, and delicious homemade focaccia.

We spent the night in Ortigia at the charming Il Duomo hotel. The hotel offers easy access to the city’s main attractions and is located in the main piazza. (Photo above)

After checking into our hotel, we roamed Ortigia’s maze-like streets, filled with ancient palaces, baroque churches, and historic temples. Starting at the Doric temple of Apollo, we then moved on to Piazza Archimede and Piazza Minerva, each painstakingly restored, offering a glimpse into the city’s rich history and architectural beauty. We also visited the Palazzo Arcivescovile and Palazzo Vermexio, which were adjacent to our hotel in Piazza Duomo. Nearby, we explored the Galleria Regionale di Palazzo Bellomo, an art gallery housed in a captivating 13th-century palace. As the day drew to a close, we collected our bikes and made our way to the coast to see the Fonte Aretusa fountain and learn about its mythical origins. We then traversed the island’s perimeter to reach Castello Maniace, a well-preserved historic fort overlooking the sea.

At sunset, we returned to the Lungomare Alfeo promenade, a perfect spot to end the day, and then for dinner, we visited A putia delle cose buone, a cozy restaurant known for its delicious home-cooked meals and welcoming atmosphere.

Day 6: Exploring Siracusa

We started the day by biking to the Neapolis archaeological site, which includes a Roman amphitheater, ancient quarries, a castle, and the famous Orecchio di Dionisio cave. The highlight of Neapolis was the Greek theatre dating back to the 5th century BC, which is still used for performances at certain times of the year. You can check the schedule and buy tickets here (or on-site). A tour around the entire complex takes about 90 minutes. After exploring the archaeological site, we visited the Paolo Orsi Archaeological Museum, a must-see attraction in Sicily.

On our final afternoon, we enjoyed a leisurely ride along the coastal path. This previously abandoned railway track now provides pedestrians and cyclists with breathtaking views of the cliffs, turquoise waters, and Ortigia Island.

We ended our day back in Catania with a delightful meal at L’iska, a cozy and charming restaurant nestled near the bustling fish market and close to Castello Ursino. This cozy spot offers delicious fresh fish and local cuisine, while the street outside is adorned with a whimsical canopy of colourful umbrellas.

Day 7: Departing.

Sadly, our early flight time meant we didn’t have the opportunity to explore further. It’s truly a shame because our guides had recommended visiting two delightful seaside towns on the beautiful Riviera dei Ciclopi and Aci Castello, just north of the city.

Riviera dei Ciclopi is a breathtaking 12-kilometer stretch of rocky coastline adorned with enchanting towns, each weaving its own tapestry of ancient Greek legends. Acitrezza, a short 30-minute drive or bus ride (534) from Catania, offers a haven where you can swim near the iconic faraglioni—majestic rocks believed to have been cast into the sea by the Cyclops Polyphemus in Greek mythology. While there may not be sandy beaches, you can still find comfort on a raised wooden platform or boardwalk, gazing at the mesmerizing volcanic rocks or enjoying a serene boat trip to Lachea Island.

On your way back to Catania, take a moment to relax in the lovely town of Aci Castello, where you can marvel at the Norman castle perched on a lava outcrop. Indulge in a refreshing granita or gelato.

Final thoughts.

Exploring the stunning landscapes and rich culture of Southeast Sicily is an experience that will truly leave a lasting impact, no matter whether you’re a seasoned traveler or a first-time visitor. From the bustling city of Catania (now one of my favorite cities in Italy) to the historic ruins of Siracusa and the charming town of Taormina, there’s something for everyone to enjoy. This was our first ever car-free vacation, and personally, I was blown away by the ease of travel on public transport in Sicily. A wise person once said, ‘Travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer.’ And I, for one, feel much enriched by our week-long trip to this beautiful, historic island. And, dear reader, I do hope through my ramblings you’ll be inspired to visit—and perhaps not even rent a car!